Embarking on a journey to Antarctica’s renowned Weddell Sea offers a unique perspective on escaping the hustle and bustle of crowds.
Descending into the frigid teal waters, I’m grateful for the layers of socks inside my dry suit. Carefully navigating the sharp edges of an iceberg protruding beneath the surface, I avoid getting too close, wary of the possibility of it capsizing and pulling me under. Pushing aside thoughts of the dangers lurking in Antarctica’s icy depths, I focus on the mesmerizing sight before me: thousands of tiny gelatinous creatures, seemingly from another world, drift by beneath my snorkel mask.
“We can journey to the moon, yet there’s still so much about our own planet that eludes us,” reflects Florence ‘Flo’ Kuyper, our expedition team leader, echoing sentiments expressed at the outset of our voyage. Indeed, in this remote and untamed corner of the world, I feel as though I’m observing alien life forms through my goggles.
Suddenly, our small group of polar snorkelers is startled into action as we realize we’re not alone. Initial fear at the sight of a dark shape approaching underwater quickly turns to elation as we realize it’s merely a curious fur seal pup, drawn to investigate the colorful intruders in its icy domain. Playfully darting around us, the young seal pauses briefly to gaze at me with its large, inky eyes before disappearing in a flash of silver-grey fur. With the assistance of ‘Scuba Pete’ Szyszka, whose strength proves invaluable in hoisting my frozen body back into the Zodiac, I’m overcome with emotion at our unexpected encounter, tears of joy mingling with the chill on my flushed cheeks. My first journey to Antarctica proves to be every bit as profound and moving as I anticipated.
Offered only once or twice per season by Aurora Expeditions, our Wild Antarctica itinerary takes us deep into the Weddell Sea, a region characterized by Sir Ernest Shackleton as “the worst sea in the world.” Known for its colossal tabular icebergs, persistent sea ice, and storied maritime history, the Weddell Sea feels isolated and remote, a sentiment reinforced by its avoidance by most polar cruising vessels. Despite its desolate appearance, I’m surprised to find that satellite Wi-Fi connectivity remains surprisingly reliable aboard our ship.
Beneath the surreal beauty of the Weddell Sea lies an undeniable harshness. From the menacing sea ice capable of ensnaring modern vessels to the formidable 850-pound sea lions lounging on ice floes, the specter of being stranded in this unforgiving wilderness looms large. Shackleton’s ill-fated Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition was not the only venture to fall victim to such perils. The earlier Swedish Antarctica Expedition of 1901-1903 faced similar trials, spending a second winter on Snow Hill Island after their ship, Antarctic, was unable to collect them as planned. Meanwhile, the crew of Antarctic, faced with the same fate further north on Paulet Island after their vessel succumbed to pack ice, managed to survive against the odds, foreshadowing the events that would unfold with Endurance in 1915. Despite the hardships endured, both expeditions ultimately emerged triumphant, with only a single loss of life during the Swedish voyage.
Home truths
Disembarking from the Zodiacs onto Paulet Island to explore the remnants of a stone hut erected by the crew of Antarctic, we are greeted by a potent odor of guano and decay. Navigating past lounging seals and the sparse scattering of adélie penguin carcasses on a beach typically bustling with juvenile penguins at this time of year, our guide, Antarctic historian Steve Martin, expresses his astonishment at the unusual absence of adélies.
“You can draw your own conclusions about climate change, but it’s evident that changes are underway,” he remarks somberly, observing a skua scavenging the remains of an unfortunate penguin left behind by its peers. Such moments throughout the expedition compel me to confront my own impact on our delicate planet.
Mindful of the carbon-intensive nature of Antarctic travel, I take steps to minimize my footprint, including selecting an operator committed to sustainability. Aurora Expeditions, certified carbon-neutral in 2021, employs the energy-efficient X-BOW hull design on our ship, the Greg Mortimer, not only enhancing our journey’s smoothness but also reducing energy consumption—a boon for my susceptibility to seasickness, especially as we navigate formidable 20-foot swells during the Drake Passage crossing. In 2023, the Australian-based company, currently pursuing B Corp certification, published its inaugural Impact Report, offering transparent insights into its sustainability efforts.
Aurora Expeditions is part of a growing movement among polar operators that encourages guests to participate in citizen science initiatives. As we sail between landing sites, naturalist and marine biologist Dr. John Kirkwood instructs me in conducting seabird surveys for eBird—an online repository of bird-related data. When Flo announces the sighting of a spirited pod of humpback whales off the bow, I rush to the observation deck to photograph their flukes (tails) for upload to the whale-monitoring project, Happywhale. While my contributions to science may seem modest, their impact on me is profound, fostering a deeper connection to this untamed realm.
Modern explorer
Nestled in my polar-toned stateroom, complete with a king bed, en suite bathroom, balcony, and even a TV, I can’t help but feel a twinge of guilt labeling myself an ‘expeditioner,’ as Flo affectionately dubs us. The ship’s creature comforts almost make it easy to forget that Antarctica, particularly the Weddell Sea, remains a realm where Mother Nature wields her power unpredictably. It’s Captain Oleg Klaptenko’s diplomatic reminder that his favorite expedition is any that safely returns all passengers and crew to port that underscores the gravity of our journey, transforming ‘expeditioner’ from a casual term to a solemn acknowledgment. Polar snorkeling is just one of the many optional activities offered to those seeking adventure. On a picturesque day in Duse Bay, amidst glaciers glistening with fresh snow, I join the kayakers for a serene paddle. The tranquil sapphire waters mirror the azure sky as we maneuver around towering icebergs populated by seals, sea lions, and clusters of penguins. The silence of the kayaks intensifies the natural symphony: the rhythmic swish of paddles slicing through brash ice, the thunderous echoes of glaciers calving, and the playful snorts of sea lions observing us from icy perches. With only a thin layer of plastic separating me from the frigid polar depths, I feel simultaneously exhilarated and vulnerable. “There’s no record of a sea lion attacking a kayaker,” our guide Daniel Stavert reassures me with a grin, though his jest doesn’t entirely quell my nerves. As we meander through the bay, we encounter a striking black iceberg, its pristine translucence a stark contrast to the weathered behemoths surrounding it. “There’s no impurity in it to scatter light,” Daniel explains. “This iceberg could be millennia old.” It’s moments like these that deepen my connection to Antarctica, offering glimpses of its enigmatic beauty. Even for those who opt out of the optional activities, the Weddell Sea is generous with its offerings, allowing for included Zodiac cruises and shore excursions almost daily. With a maximum of 132 passengers aboard the Greg Mortimer, there’s no need for staggered landings, a common practice on larger ships to adhere to International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) guidelines. Stepping onto the icy shores of Brown Bluff on day five, surrounded by a bustling colony of gentoo penguins, is a highlight of our expedition. Visits to Otto Nordenskjöld’s restored hut on Snow Hill Island and the remnants of Whalers Bay in the South Shetland Islands offer intriguing insights into the region’s maritime legacy. And as we venture deeper into the icy wilderness, Zodiac cruises among colossal icebergs leave us in awe. Back on board, a packed schedule of presentations and lectures enriches our understanding of the Antarctic ecosystem. “If you get too close to an adélie, you’ll get a mouthful of vomit or poop,” Dr. Kirkwood warns during a penguin talk, a reminder of the pungent reality of polar life. As we reach the southernmost point of our journey, just over 100 nautical miles north of the Antarctic Circle, Flo announces the polar plunge. Shivering in anticipation, I’m moved to see a majority of my fellow expeditioners, including my usually cold-averse husband, taking the icy plunge alongside members of the expedition team and crew. The shared experience fosters a sense of camaraderie that carries over to the bar that evening, where laughter and storytelling fill the air. Despite the dwindling daylight hours, there’s still ample time for whale-watching from the onboard sauna or outdoor hot tub before dinner. As I watch a humpback whale breach the choppy waves from the warmth of the tub one blustery evening, tears well up in my eyes. The profound privilege of experiencing Antarctica washes over me once more, a reminder to cherish every moment in this extraordinary place.
How to do it:
Here’s how you can embark on Aurora Expeditions’ 14-day Wild Antarctica expedition:
Expedition Details:
Departures: One departure in 2024 and two in 2025, all in March.
Prices: Starting from £12,110 per person.
Inclusions: All meals during the voyage, included activities, airport transfers, and a polar jacket.
Optional Activities: Kayaking and snorkeling available for an additional fee.
Exclusions: Flights.
Visa Information:
British passport holders do not require a visa to visit Chile or Argentina for stays less than 90 days.
Getting There and Around:
Departure Point: Punta Arenas, Chile (includes a charter flight to King George Island for embarkation).
Disembarkation: Ushuaia, Argentina.
Flight Options: British Airways offers flights from Heathrow to Santiago, with connections to Punta Arenas via LATAM Airlines.
Average Flight Time: Approximately 18 hours.
Transportation: Most attractions in Punta Arenas are accessible on foot, while shuttle buses in Ushuaia provide access to trailheads.
Accommodation Recommendations:
Punta Arenas: Hotel José Nogueira’s Shackleton Bar offers a charming atmosphere. Rates start at $225 (£185) per night, including breakfast.
Ushuaia: Arakur Resort & Spa provides stunning views of the Beagle Channel. Rates start at $477 (£391) per night, including breakfast.
Best Time to Go:
Antarctic expeditions typically operate from November to March.
Wild Antarctica expeditions occur during Antarctica’s late summer, offering sightings of playful fur seal pups, baby penguins, and humpback whales, along with breathtaking sunsets.
Average Temperature: Around -5°C, with significant fluctuations possible.
