Navigating through these mountains feels akin to pioneering a path anew, as the absence of marked trails renders much of the journey uncharted and untamed—a truly wild experience.
At the southern tip of the Americas lies Puerto Williams, a secluded Chilean outpost nestled on the Beagle Channel. With a population of just 3,000 inhabitants, including scientists, naval officers, and Indigenous Yahgan fishermen, this remote town marks the starting point of the southernmost trekking route on Earth.
The renowned five-day Dientes Circuit encircles Navarino Island, commencing and concluding in Puerto Williams. Here, amidst windswept streets inhabited by feral horses and wandering cows, visitors encounter a modest assortment of shops, predominantly outdoor outfitters, along with hostels, hotels, and restaurants offering the local delicacy—king crab.
However, the true allure lies above, amidst the rugged peaks of the Dientes de Navarino mountain range. Adventurous hikers traverse dense forests of Nothofagus trees, journeying across 33 miles of terrain that encompasses peat bogs, crystalline lakes, and formidable alpine passes. From these heights, vistas stretch southward towards Cape Horn, the last vestige of land before Antarctica.
Reflecting on the evolving landscape of tourism, Maurice van de Maele, president of the local tourism board, notes the increasing popularity of the Dientes Circuit. In contrast to the bustling trails of nearby Torres del Paine National Park, where reservations for campsites are essential due to overcrowding, the Dientes Circuit offers a more secluded experience, attracting fewer than 2,000 adventurers annually. Yet, even in this remote frontier, tourism figures are on the rise.
In the coming year, Puerto Williams will see the inauguration of a new multipurpose pier to accommodate expedition ships bound for Antarctica, alongside the development of a passenger terminal at its modest airport, promising improved accessibility. Coupled with advancements like high-speed Wi-Fi and a state-of-the-art research center, the town is becoming increasingly interconnected with the wider world. While the harsh climate of this latitude may serve as a natural deterrent, the allure of the Dientes Circuit seems poised to captivate a broader audience in the years to come.
‘It’s totally wild’
The genesis of the Dientes Circuit can be traced back to the late 1990s when Australian adventurer Clem Lindenmayer charted the route for a Lonely Planet trekking guide. Although initially underutilized, it gradually garnered a devoted following, growing alongside Patagonia’s emergence as a sought-after destination.
Reflecting on the allure of the circuit, Jorge Barbero, the founder of Explora Isla Navarino, reminisces about the exhilarating sense of freedom it offers. “It’s like you’re the first person walking in these mountains because you don’t see a trail for much of the way—it’s totally wild,” he recalls.
The journey kicks off with a brisk two-mile ascent to Cerro Bandera, a favorite day hike among cruise passengers, offering panoramic vistas of the Beagle Channel. Thru-hikers then traverse the Robalo Valley to Laguna del Salto, where the first night is spent in the vicinity of a sinuous waterfall. Days two and three entail scrambling over rocky mountain passes before descending into damp beech forests, where camp is set beside alpine lagoons. The terrain, blanketed with Magellanic bog moss, lends the sensation of walking on a saturated sponge, putting waterproof boots to the test.
Day four presents a predominantly uphill trek, crossing the rugged and windswept Paso Virginia to return to the northern flank of Dientes de Navarino, where shelter awaits in a secluded forest. Contrarily, day five unfolds with a predominantly downhill trajectory leading back to Puerto Williams through a forest resonant with the rhythmic tap-tap of Magellanic woodpeckers.
Barbero remarks on the circuit’s modest nature, noting that while the mileage and elevation gains are manageable, the unpredictability of Patagonian weather can introduce complexity. In this region, experiencing all four seasons within a single day is commonplace, with locals jesting about encountering them all within an hour.
During the brief hiking season from November to March, temperatures typically peak around 50 degrees Fahrenheit in Puerto Williams, plummeting well below freezing at higher elevations. Beyond the peak Austral summer months of January and February, campers may awaken to snow-covered tents, followed by an afternoon bathed in intense sunlight. By mid-March, those braving the elements may be rewarded with the vibrant hues of fall foliage amidst occasional snowstorms.
A beaver problem
The Dientes Circuit traverses terrain above the tree line, where a defined path is absent. However, signposts positioned every half-mile or so assist hikers in maintaining their course. Forested sections present distinct challenges, with tangled roots, dense bogs, and thorny calafate bushes impeding progress. Yet, the most formidable obstacle arises from the presence of beavers, whose annual dam constructions alter the trail’s route.
In 1946, twenty Canadian beavers were introduced to the Argentinian side of Tierra del Fuego, just across the Beagle Channel, with the aim of diversifying the local economy through fur and castoreum production. Lacking natural predators, the beaver population proliferated rapidly.
Presently, estimates suggest there are around 60,000 beavers on Navarino Island alone, as stated by Miguel Gallardo of Navarino Beaver. Gallardo leads tours showcasing the detrimental impact of beavers on the island’s otherwise pristine forests. He is among a handful of individuals actively engaged in population control efforts, culling approximately 60 beavers annually for artisanal crafts and culinary purposes. Highlighting the nutritional value of beaver meat, Gallardo notes its high fiber and protein content, albeit recommending a flavorful sauce to offset any bitterness.
Beaver activity fosters an environment conducive to other invasive species, notably minks and muskrats, which Gallardo describes as “a trilogy of destruction.” As a former park ranger, he hopes that increased tourism will compel the government to address the issue more seriously.
The promise and perils of tourism
Efforts to manage the beaver population are ongoing, although a comprehensive strategy remains elusive. However, plans are underway to enhance the organization of the trek itself. Presently, there are no facilities beyond Puerto Williams. However, Cristina Altamirano, head of the municipal tourism office, reveals that funds have been allocated to improve signage, establish dry toilets, and create emergency shelters by the conclusion of 2024.
Infrastructure for tourism in Puerto Williams is also expanding. A new multipurpose pier, set to open gradually over the next three years, aims to position the small town as a prominent gateway for journeys to Antarctica (cruise companies like Silversea Cruises have already relocated ships here). Additionally, a passenger terminal is scheduled to open this year at Guardia Marina Zañartu Airport, which receives six weekly flights (December to March) from the regional Chilean capital of Punta Arenas. Visitors can also opt for a boat journey from Punta Arenas, offering a breathtaking 32-hour voyage through the fjords of Alberto de Agostini National Park.
To accommodate the growing influx of tourists, new establishments such as cafés (like Campero), craft breweries (such as Subantartica Beer House), and hotels (including Fío Fío) have emerged in recent years. Furthermore, a remarkable new research institution, Centro Subantártico Cabo de Hornos, focusing on sub-Antarctic ecology, has been established. However, the town currently lacks sufficient lodgings and dining options to accommodate the increasing number of visitors.
David Alday, former president of the local Yahgan community, expresses concerns about the rapid growth of the island. Despite not opposing tourism—he owns the kayaking company Tánana, offering excursions in the Beagle Channel to showcase the seafaring legacy of the Yahgan—he emphasizes the importance of sustainable growth aligned with Yahgan principles of environmental harmony and preservation. Alday emphasizes the need to find a balance to prevent overcrowding in the town while ensuring its long-term sustainability.
IF YOU GO
To embark on the Dientes de Navarino trek, Puerto Williams, Chile, serves as the primary access point. You can reach this town via a 45-minute flight operated by Aerovías DAP from Punta Arenas on the Chilean mainland. Alternatively, you can opt for a 32-hour ferry journey with Transbordadora Austral Broom from Punta Arenas.
The ideal time to undertake the trek is during the austral summer, which spans from mid-December to mid-March, offering the most favorable weather conditions. It’s worth noting that the route is closed between May and October due to inclement weather conditions and limited accessibility.
For those seeking guided expeditions, several tour companies specialize in organizing trips along the Dientes Circuit. Notable options include Explora Isla Navarino, Chile Nativo, and Cascada Expediciones.
National Geographic Expeditions also offers various trips to Chile and Patagonia, including opportunities to explore the region. Additionally, National Geographic Maps provides detailed maps of the area, while the book “National Geographic’s 100 Hikes of a Lifetime” offers insights into other treks in the region, making it a valuable resource for adventurers.
