Climbing Mount Everest involves a comprehensive understanding of its geology, logistics, and the significant costs associated with such an expedition.
In the decades since the historic first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, climbing the world’s highest peak has undergone profound transformations. Advancements in knowledge, technology, and the establishment of extensive infrastructure by commercially guided expeditions have made it more accessible to hundreds of climbers annually. These guided expeditions have effectively created a well-equipped pathway up the mountain, offering climbers the opportunity to tackle Everest while navigating significant risks and bearing a substantial financial investment.
Where is Everest—and how old is it?
Mount Everest, known as Sagarmatha in Nepali and Chomolungma in Tibetan, straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet along the crest of the Himalayan mountain range. Despite its extreme altitude, which poses significant challenges such as avalanches and icefalls, Everest is surprisingly close to the equator, located at approximately 28 degrees latitude, similar to the location of Tampa, Florida.
Geologically, Everest is estimated to be between 50 to 60 million years old, relatively young in geological terms. It was formed by the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which continues to push the summit upwards by about a quarter of an inch each year. This ongoing tectonic activity has resulted in Everest becoming the tallest mountain on Earth, rising to its majestic height of 8,848 meters (29,029 feet).
What are the hazards of climbing Everest?
Climbing Mount Everest entails significant hazards primarily due to its extreme altitude and challenging environmental conditions:
Hazards of Climbing Everest
- Altitude: At 29,032 feet (8,848 meters), Everest’s summit experiences approximately one-third the air pressure of sea level, severely limiting oxygen intake. The human body is not physiologically capable of sustaining itself indefinitely above 19,000 feet.
- Altitude-related Ailments:
- Pulmonary Edema: Fluid accumulation in the lungs, making breathing difficult.
- Cerebral Edema: Swelling of the brain due to fluid accumulation, affecting cognitive function.
- Blood Embolisms: Clotting of blood vessels due to low oxygen levels, posing serious health risks.
- Cold and Frostbite: Extremely low temperatures increase the risk of frostbite, particularly in exposed areas such as fingers and toes. The body prioritizes oxygen delivery to vital organs over extremities, heightening susceptibility to frostbite.
- Dependency on Oxygen: The majority of climbers use bottled oxygen to mitigate the effects of high altitude. However, this method has drawbacks:
- Cost and Weight: Oxygen tanks are expensive and cumbersome to transport.
- Environmental Impact: Empty cylinders are often left behind as litter on the mountain.
- Reliability Issues: Oxygen systems can fail unexpectedly, jeopardizing climbers’ safety during critical moments like summit attempts.
Conclusion
Despite advancements in equipment and technology, climbing Everest remains perilous due to its extreme altitude and harsh conditions. Climbers must navigate these hazards cautiously while striving to conquer the world’s highest peak.
How Many Routes Are There to the Top?
Mount Everest boasts 17 established routes to its summit, but the vast majority of climbers opt for one of two primary routes:
- Southeast Ridge (Nepal Side):
- First Ascent: Established by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953.
- Challenges: Includes navigating the hazardous Khumbu Icefall, which poses significant risks such as crevasses and avalanches. Despite this, the summit day is relatively shorter, and it offers a quicker descent route in case of emergencies.
- North Ridge (Tibet Side):
- Historical Context: Famously associated with George Mallory’s disappearance in 1924, though it was successfully summited by a Chinese team in 1960.
- Advantages: Accessibility via jeeps to a closer base camp, but requires traversing several kilometers of high-altitude terrain above 27,000 feet to reach the summit. This route presents its own set of challenges distinct from the Southeast Ridge.
Comparison of Routes
Experienced mountaineers suggest that while the overall difficulty between the Southeast Ridge and North Ridge routes is comparable, each route presents unique challenges and logistical considerations. The choice often depends on climber preferences, logistical support, and current climbing conditions.
Choosing the right route is crucial as it significantly impacts the climber’s experience, safety, and chances of successfully reaching the summit of Mount Everest.
How Crowded is Everest?
Mount Everest has experienced a surge in popularity since the 1990s, particularly with the advent of commercial expeditions. Despite the inherent risks, hundreds of climbers flock to Everest each year. In 2021, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism issued a record 408 climbing permits for Everest, marking the highest number in its history.
Who are Everest’s Guides?
Everest is not just a mountain; it’s big business for local logistics companies and the government of Nepal. Climbing Everest with a commercial team can cost anywhere from $40,000 to $100,000, depending on the level of service and expertise provided by the outfitter. In 2018 alone, the Ministry of Tourism collected $5.2 million in permit fees.
The backbone of the Everest industry comprises a small group of professional Nepalese guides. These guides play a critical role each spring by preparing the climbing route with fixed ropes and ladders, stocking camps with essentials such as tents, stoves, bottled oxygen, and food, and guiding foreign climbers towards the summit.
Historically, Sherpas—a Tibetan ethnic group residing near Everest—were hired to carry supplies up the mountain. However, today, there are multiple ethnic groups involved in high-altitude work on Everest, earning them the less glamorous title of “high-altitude mountain workers.”
For a typical three-to-four-month Everest expedition, these guides earn between $2,500 and $5,000. Recent initiatives like the Khumbu Climbing Center have provided training and certifications to Nepalese guides, aligning them with international standards and enhancing safety and professionalism in Everest expeditions.
How Long is an Expedition?
Climbing Everest is a lengthy and meticulously planned endeavor that spans several months:
- Preparation: Teams typically gather in Kathmandu by late March to commence acclimatization. Meanwhile, basecamp support staff and high-altitude workers are already on the mountain, preparing the route and stocking camps.
- Acclimatization: Throughout April, climbers undertake several overnight rotations to progressively higher camps on the mountain to acclimatize to the altitude. Nepalese guides may also begin summit attempts during this period.
- Establishing Routes: By mid-May, teams aim to have established a trail with several miles of fixed ropes from basecamp to the summit, supported by well-stocked camps along the way.
- Summit Push: After a final period of rest and recovery, typically including descents to lower elevations for recuperation, climbers embark on the final summit push. This grueling endeavor usually spans four to five days round-trip from basecamp to summit and back.
- Completion: If successful, most climbers complete their expedition and begin their journey home by early June.
How Dangerous is It?
Climbing Everest remains inherently risky, with significant dangers posed by altitude and harsh environmental conditions:
- Fatality Statistics: According to the Himalayan Database, over 300 people have died on Everest. The overall death rate, calculated as fatalities divided by the total number of climbers attempting the mountain (not just those summiting), is approximately 1.2%. This statistic underscores the inherent risks involved in attempting Everest.
- Safety Improvements: Advances in gear, weather forecasting, and the rise of commercial operations have contributed to a perceived increase in safety. From 1923 to 1999, the death rate was 14.5% with 170 deaths and 1,169 summits. However, from 2000 to 2018, despite 7,990 summits, there were 123 deaths, reducing the death rate to 1.5%.
- Safety Measures: Ongoing efforts to enhance safety on Everest include improved equipment standards, better weather prediction capabilities, and the professionalization of guiding services, all aimed at mitigating risks for climbers.
Climbing Everest remains a formidable challenge that demands rigorous preparation, resilience in adverse conditions, and a thorough understanding of the associated risks.
What’s the Summit Like?
The summit of Mount Everest is a small, snow-covered dome approximately the size of a dining room table. Despite its small area, it accommodates around half a dozen climbers at a time. On busy days, climbers must take turns to stand on this pinnacle and savor the experience of being at the highest point on Earth.
Is There Anything Left to Explore on Everest?
While Mount Everest’s main routes have been ascended, there are still unexplored challenges awaiting future mountaineers:
- New Routes: The last new route was established by a Russian team in 2004. However, there remain intriguing challenges such as the unclimbed Fantasy Ridge and the ambitious Horseshoe Traverse, which involves ascending Everest along with its neighboring peaks, Lhotse and Nuptse.
- Exploration and Creativity: According to alpinist and National Geographic photographer Cory Richards, Everest continues to offer opportunities for exploration and innovation. Despite its challenges, climbers approach Everest in various creative ways, reflecting both their skills and personal creativity.
- Potential for Innovation: Mount Everest, with its enduring allure and formidable nature, remains a symbolic pinnacle of exploration. As technology, skills, and environmental awareness continue to evolve, Everest continues to present new possibilities for those willing to explore its heights.
Mount Everest, while steeped in history and achievement, remains a beacon for adventurers seeking new challenges and uncharted paths in the world of mountaineering.
