Urban regeneration, fjord life and friluftsliv — the concept of celebrating outdoor living regardless of the weather — make Norway’s capital an appealing summer getaway. And this underappreciated city is having its moment in the sun.
In Oslo, one of the first things you notice is the smell of hot dogs. Just as Istanbul is fragranced with cinnamon and saffron, and Malaysia is associated with the pungent whiff of durian, the reassuring smell of hot dogs — pølse, in Norwegian — lingers in the air of Norway’s capital, wafting from convenience stores all over the city. Served the traditional way in a thin flatbread, this humble snack holds a lot of cultural significance in Norway; it’s said that around 450 million of them are eaten in the country each year. But this unassuming city has come a long way since hot dogs were its main culinary claim. With thriving neighbourhood coffee shops, innovative fusion cuisine and, in 2022, the addition of three new Michelin-starred restaurants, Oslo’s food scene is having a moment.
Sitting at the head of Oslofjord, an inlet along the country’s southern coast, Oslo has flown quietly under the radar for years, often overlooked in favour of Copenhagen or Stockholm. Yet the city has just as much design, culinary and architectural punch as its Scandinavian neighbours. The fact it’s not so firmly on the tourist map just means it doesn’t feel as busy — an added bonus.
“Oslo is such an underrated city,” says Curtis Rojak, the founder of Viking Biking & Hiking, as we pedal along a newly developed 5.5-mile promenade. The path connects a series of neighbourhoods that have been created from 560 acres of former industrial land.
As Curtis chats about the city’s reinvention, we pass the Oslo Opera House, the newly minted Munch Museum, and the series of 12 high-rise buildings collectively called Barcode — an architectural project erected in the old docklands, which is home to offices and residential blocks. Our end point is Sørenga Sjøbad, an urban waterfront beach and seawater pool that sums up what Curtis describes as friluftsliv. “Friluftsliv is a philosophy, a way of life,” he says. “It’s the Norwegian’s commitment to celebrate time outdoors, regardless of the weather conditions.” Indeed, Oslo was named the European Green Capital in 2019 by the European Commission, partly thanks to its car-free streets and 70% tree coverage.
Later, we cycle uphill along the banks of the Akerselva river, which cuts through the city, cascading via a series of waterfalls down to Oslofjord. “It’s great to watch the salmon run during season,” says Curtis, as we sit munching on waffles smothered in Norway’s tangy, nutty brunost (brown cheese), the sun warming our shoulders. There’s a lot to like about Oslo, a city that’s clearly on the rise.
Things to do
Munch Museum
One of the largest single-artist museums in the world, the Munch Museum, which opened in October 2021, unfolds over 13 floors and is home to 26,000 works by Edvard Munch — Norway’s most celebrated artist — including three versions of The Scream. There’s also Bistro Tolvte — which serves a menu of international favourites — on the 12th level. If coming for dinner, first make your way to Kranen, the top-floor cocktail bar, where you’ll be rewarded with a bird’s-eye view of Oslofjord.
National Museum of Norway
Originally founded in 2003 but reopened in June 2022, the National Museum of Norway’s striking new home is in the Aker Brygge area, on Oslo’s waterfront. It’s the largest museum in the Nordic region, holding more than 400,000 objects covering everything from Norwegian design and crafts to modern art. Taking nearly eight years to complete at a cost of £500 million, the space also exhibits work from artists such as Picasso, Van Gogh and Matisse, alongside a whole room filled with pieces by Munch.
Grønland
This area — the streets of which are filled with the aromas from restaurants serving Pakistani food, Turkish kebabs and more — is home to a large number of first- and second-generation immigrants. A wander around the streets is an immersion in the diversity of a local Oslo neighbourhood. Drop by the Intercultural Museum and take a look at the landmark Grønland Church — one of the largest in Oslo — along with the Central Jam-e-Mosque, with its facade beautifully decorated in Spanish and Iranian tiles.
Ekebergparken
Just a 10-minute tram ride from Oslo Central Station, Ekebergparken originally opened in 1889 as a recreational space for locals. Today, the 155-acre wooded area has been transformed into a sculpture park with 37 installations by celebrated international artists such as Louise Bourgeois and James Turrell. The park is also home to rock carvings and ruins dating back to the Stone Age, and has breathtaking views of Oslofjord.
Oslofjord
Swimming in Oslofjord is a year-round activity for Oslovians and a must for visitors. Purchase a picnic basket from Deli & Kafé on the ground floor of the Munch Museum and head to Opera Beach just out front, or dive off the board from Sørenga Sjøbad. Visitors can also rent one of the floating saunas that line the edge of the fjord. KOK Oslo’s sauna rafts can hold up to 10 people. When the water is free of ice, you can also join a two-hour scenic raft tour of the fjord.
Oslo Opera House
This landmark building anchors Bjørvika, a former industrial area that’s been transformed into the city’s new cultural quarter. Designed by celebrated local architecture firm Snøhetta, the white granite and Italian marble structure seems to rise from the Oslofjord like a giant glacier. Its roof slopes upwards from the pavement so that visitors can stroll along the slanted walkway to the rooftop and enjoy views over the city. It’s a popular recreational area and far more than just a theatre for opera or ballet.
Things to Do at Oslo Opera House:
- Rooftop Walkway: The most distinctive feature of the Oslo Opera House is its rooftop walkway. Visitors can walk up the gently sloping roof, which is designed to resemble a glacier, and enjoy panoramic views of Oslo, the Oslofjord, and the surrounding landscape.
- Cultural Performances: While known as the home of the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet, the Oslo Opera House hosts a variety of cultural performances, including concerts, theatrical productions, and dance performances. Check the schedule for events during your visit.
- Architectural Tour: Learn about the design and construction of the Opera House with a guided architectural tour. Discover the innovative features of the building, including its use of natural light and sustainable materials.
- Picnic and Relaxation: Many locals and tourists alike use the Opera House as a recreational space. Bring a picnic and relax on the steps or grassy areas outside the building, especially during the warmer months.
- Opera House Restaurant: Enjoy a meal or refreshments at the Opera House Restaurant, which offers scenic views of the fjord and modern Norwegian cuisine. It’s a great spot to unwind after exploring the opera house.
The Oslo Opera House is not just a cultural venue but also a symbol of Oslo’s modernity and integration with its natural surroundings, offering visitors a unique blend of architecture, art, and outdoor leisure.
Where to Eat in Oslo
Mathallen
On the banks of the Akerselva river in the vibrant Vulkan district — another former industrial area — Mathallen is Oslo’s original food hall. It houses more than 40 specialty stores and places to eat. Try Vulkanfisk, which sells the freshest Norwegian fish, or Helt Vilt, which serves a menu of Norwegian dishes including a brunost moose burger, using ingredients from the forest and mountains. Pick and choose whatever you fancy and perch yourself at any of the communal tables for a great people-watching session. Be prepared for crowds during peak lunch and dinner times.
The Little Pickle
Amid the mellow cafes, dance clubs, and bars in the hip Grünerløkka district, and a 20-minute stroll from Oslo’s city centre, The Little Pickle is a cosy, laid-back neighbourhood restaurant worth the trip. Book a window seat and tuck into the menu of hearty, comfort food. It uses seasonal, local, and organic produce to create modern European dishes — such as free-range pork terrine with pickled celery and house-made mustard.
Restaurant Einer
Founded by chef Svein Trandem and his partner in wine, Sara Johansson — both of whom previously worked at Oslo’s three-Michelin-star Maaemo restaurant — Einer is a celebration of seasonal Nordic ingredients. Using techniques such as smoking, fermenting, curing, and pickling, it serves dishes such as monkfish with beets, bone marrow, and truffle, washed down with natural wines. There’s also an on-site wine bar called Einbar.
Like a local
Krokskogen Trail
Surrounded by lush forests, mountains, and picturesque lakes, Oslo’s surroundings offer numerous hiking trails suitable for all abilities. While Vettakollen’s peak provides stunning views over Oslofjord, those seeking a challenge should consider the Krokskogen Trail. This 15.5-mile round-trip hike takes approximately eight hours, starting at the breathtaking Mørkgonga nature reserve. The trail winds through Krokskogen’s forests and ascends Gyrihaugen mountain, offering panoramic views of the fjord and mountains. Accessing the trailhead from central Oslo takes about two hours by bus, involving multiple changes, but the scenic rewards justify the effort.
Akerselva River
Flowing from Lake Maridalsvannet north of Oslo, through the city center, and into Oslofjord, the Akerselva River offers a five-mile walk through Oslo’s industrial history. Begin at Ankerbrua, known as the ‘fairytale bridge,’ and follow the river northward. Along the way, discover approximately 20 waterfalls once powering Oslo’s industries. Pause at Café Månefisken, a former army uniform laundry turned into a restaurant serving international cuisine. Just under a mile further, explore Søndagsmarked, a year-round Sunday market offering jewelry, vintage clothing, and more.
Hovedøya
Hovedøya, one of several islands near Oslo and the closest to the city center, is a favored retreat for locals. Spanning no more than 2,625 feet in any direction, this small island is adorned with dense green forests and encircled by pebbled beaches. Enjoy scenic hiking trails and explore the ruins of a Cistercian monastery dating back to 1147. Whether for a refreshing swim or peaceful relaxation, Hovedøya offers an ideal escape from urban life, easily accessible by a short ferry ride from Oslo’s city center.
Where to shop
Holzweiler
Founded in Oslo in 2012 as a luxury scarves brand, Holzweiler has evolved into a beloved ready-to-wear fashion label in Norway. With seven stores across Norway and Copenhagen, the flagship store in Oslo, Holzweiler Platz, stands out. Here, visitors can explore a range of contemporary European and Japanese-inspired fashion pieces. The store also features a restaurant offering an all-day menu with dishes like miso-glazed aubergine with grilled chili dressing and shiso, blending fashion and culinary experiences.
Hasla Jewelry
A family-run business led by sisters Anne and Gunnhild Hasla, Hasla Jewelry draws inspiration from a diverse array of sources, including the organic shapes of Norwegian mountains and Picasso’s cubist art. Each piece is crafted using recycled silver, resulting in uniquely designed jewelry that serves as excellent souvenirs. Hasla Jewelry is celebrated for its commitment to sustainability and innovative design within the Norwegian jewelry industry.
Norway Designs
Established in 1957, Norway Designs is a prominent lifestyle store showcasing Scandinavian design excellence with a particular emphasis on Norwegian brands. Visitors can explore a diverse selection spread across multiple floors, featuring products ranging from Røros Tweed’s high-quality wool throws, blankets, and cushions to Heymat’s decorative doormats. The store also offers a variety of items including beauty products, furniture, clothing, and accessories from designers such as Kaja Gjedebo and Linn Sigrid Bratland, making it a comprehensive destination for design enthusiasts.
Where to stay
Citybox
Citybox offers a no-frills concept with a focus on comfort and convenience. Located just a five-minute walk from Oslo Central Station, this hotel features guest rooms ranging from singles to junior suites, each equipped with its own bathroom. Guests check in and out via self-service kiosks, and amenities include a co-working space and a communal kitchen. Despite the minimalist approach, Citybox provides a comfortable stay ideal for those seeking affordability and a central location in Oslo.
Clarion Hotel Oslo
Art enthusiasts will appreciate the Clarion Hotel Oslo, where art takes center stage throughout the 255-room property. Situated in Bjørvika near the Oslo Opera House, the hotel offers light-filled rooms characterized by clean Scandinavian design. In addition to a permanent art collection, the hotel hosts exhibitions and events. The Kitchen & Table Fishery restaurant within the hotel is a popular dining spot, complemented by numerous other dining options nearby. With its prime location and artistic ambiance, Clarion Hotel Oslo provides a stylish and cultural experience for guests.
Sommerro
Located in the former headquarters of Oslo Lysverker, Sommerro offers a blend of history and modern amenities. The hotel features 231 rooms and a sprawling underground wellness space that was originally the neighborhood’s public baths. Sommerro stands out with Oslo’s first rooftop pool and a terrace providing views of Frogner, Oslo’s oldest and most elegant neighborhood. The ground floor hosts seven vibrant restaurants and bars, ensuring guests have plenty of dining options right at their doorstep. Sommerro is a unique choice for those seeking a blend of heritage, luxury, and modern comforts in Oslo.
Oslo after hours
Amerikalinjen
Amerikalinjen is one of Oslo’s trendiest hotels, featuring a vibrant curbside restaurant and bar on its ground floor with expansive floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of Central Station. For a more intimate and musical evening, head to the basement’s Gustav, a cozy jazz bar hosting sessions by renowned artists such as US trumpet virtuoso Benny Benack III. To find out more about upcoming concerts and book tickets, visit the hotel’s website.
Svanen
Located in a historic apothecary dating back to 1896, Svanen offers a unique setting for enjoying classic cocktails with a creative twist. The bar retains its original mahogany and marble interiors, and patrons can either watch the bartenders at work or relax in the alcoves. Signature drinks include the Watermelon Highball and the Smørbukk, a delightful blend of Bulleit Bourbon, burnt butter, and Angostura bitters.
The Dangerous Club
The Dangerous Club, a small but lively late-night bar and club, opens its doors at 6pm on weekends but hits its stride after midnight. Known as a ‘listening bar,’ it boasts an impressive high-end sound system with DJs spinning a mix of bossa nova, soul, jazz, and city pop amidst stylish retro interiors. It’s the perfect spot for night owls looking to enjoy great music and a vibrant atmosphere.
Getting there & around
Flights:
- British Airways offers direct flights from Heathrow to Oslo daily.
- Norwegian Air operates several daily flights from Gatwick to Oslo.
Average flight time: Approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Transportation:
Oslo’s compact urban core is ideal for exploring on foot or by bicycle. For a guided experience, consider a cycling tour with Viking Biking & Hiking. While taxis can be costly, Oslo boasts an excellent public transportation system. The Ruter app allows you to manage tickets that cover all city and regional buses, trams, Metro, local trains, and most ferries.
When to go
The best time to visit Oslo is from May to August, when temperatures are warmer and days are longer, providing ample daylight for sightseeing and outdoor activities. During midsummer, the temperatures are generally mild, with average daytime highs around 21°C in July. Winter months bring colder weather, with average daytime temperatures ranging from -2°C to -7°C in December, and a mix of rain or snow.
For more information, visit visitoslo.com.
How to do it
TUI offers a four-night city break starting from £441 per person, based on two people sharing. This package includes flights from Heathrow or Manchester and accommodation on a B&B basis. Airport transfers are not included but can be arranged at an additional cost, and some hotels can accommodate families.
This story was created with the support of Visit Norway.
