Barcelona: A Culinary Renaissance
The Catalan capital’s food scene is thriving, thanks to a new wave of chefs from Spain, South America, and beyond. Barcelona has always been a city with a rich culinary tradition, but recent years have seen an explosion of innovative and diverse dining experiences that are transforming the gastronomic landscape.
The Catalan saying «amb la panxa buida no hi ha alegria» («you can’t be happy if your stomach is empty») neatly sums up the Barcelonian attitude to dining. Food is more than just fuel — it’s a joyful celebration of tradition and an expression of fierce regional identity. And as any Catalan is quick to point out, while you can find tapas here, it’s not native to the area. Instead, the local cuisine centres around larger dishes like mongetes amb botifarra (pork sausage with beans), calçots (chargrilled green onions with romesco sauce), and esqueixada (salt cod salad) that have been shaped by Catalonia’s position between mountains and sea.
Like the city itself, Barcelona’s dining scene is a heady mix of historic and contemporary, regional and international. There has long been a sizeable South American population, and recent years have seen a surge in Latino chefs launching new ventures in the city, such as Mexican Paco Méndez’s restaurant Come, Argentinian Francisco Seubert’s bakery Coush Armó, and Venezuelan Juan Martini’s grill joints, Fat Barbies and Fat Veggies. Elsewhere, storied institutions that have served Catalan classics since the days of Gaudí stand alongside natural wine bars. And while the pandemic did force a handful of beloved local restaurants to close their doors, the majority of casualties were more tourist-leaning spots in the historic centre, the closures of which made way for more exciting, independent ventures.
At the crest of this new wave is a crop of young chefs and restaurateurs putting a contemporary spin on regional cuisine. One of the most celebrated examples is seafood restaurant Besta, which opened in 2021 with a menu showcasing a refined mix of Catalan and Galician influences. There’s also Maleducat, in the San Antoni neighbourhood, which is an updated version of a casa de menjars, an old-school style of Catalan canteen serving traditional, homely food.
It’s not just restaurants pushing Barcelona’s food scene forward, however. From bakers to winemakers, the Catalan capital is filling up with ambitious young producers setting up new ventures. There’s Pinullet, in Gràcia, where Francesco Cerutti uses organic milk from local dairies to produce nine different varieties of cheese, bean-to-bar chocolatier Lot, in Eixample, and a plethora of artisan coffee roasteries around the city. The best of the bunch can be found at the All Those Food Market, which brings together more than 150 makers and food trucks run by the city’s best restaurants in the grounds of the National Theatre of Catalonia. It’s held several times a year and is known locally as the place to get a taste of what’s hot in the city. It’s this foodie vanguard that’s been pushing Barcelona beyond being a destination for art and architecture towards becoming one of Europe’s most exciting culinary capitals.
How to spend a day in Dreta De L’Eixample
As Barcelona’s population swelled during the industrial era, a new district was built to link the city to the surrounding settlements. The result is Eixample, a grid of grand residential blocks split into L’Esquerra de l’Eixample (‘the left side of Eixample’) and Dreta de l’Eixample (‘the right side’), with Passeig de Gràcia running down the middle.
Morning:
Granja Vendrell: Start your day at Granja Vendrell, a bistro that opened in 1921 and was recently restored to its art deco glory. There are sweet and savoury breakfasts on offer, from bikinis (grilled ham and cheese sandwiches) to cream-filled brioche buns.
Manzana de la Discordia: After breakfast, head to Manzana de la Discordia on Passeig de Gràcia. This block contains buildings by four of Barcelona’s best-known architects: Lluís Domènech i Montaner, Antoni Gaudí, Josep Puig i Cadafalch, and Enric Sagnier. Here you’ll find the surreal fever dream that is Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, its curving facade coated in colorful ceramic tiles designed to resemble dragon scales. Book ahead to explore the inside.
Midday:
Boro Bar: A five-minute stroll from Casa Batlló is Boro Bar, a slick tapas joint serving excellent patatas bravas. Enjoy classic tapas or try more unusual dishes like scallop ceviche with coconut, lime, and tobiko.
Fundació Antoni Tàpies: Spend a while exploring the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, which houses more than 200 works by Antoni Tàpies, a Catalan artist known for his abstract paintings and mixed-media works.
Afternoon:
Llibreria Finestres: From the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, head to Llibreria Finestres, a bookshop spread across two elegant 20th-century buildings. There’s a large selection of books in English, and the venue also features a wine bar where you can relax and enjoy a drink.
Evening:
Café Del Centre: As evening falls, head back across the Passeig de Gràcia to Café Del Centre for some old-world glamour. Its interiors have been faithfully restored to evoke how it looked when it first opened as a casino in 1873. Chef Victor Ferrer’s menu pays tribute to local tradition with dishes like pork cheek terrine and confit cod. Enjoy a leisurely dinner and soak in the historic ambiance of this classic establishment.
By following this itinerary, you’ll experience a blend of historic charm, architectural marvels, contemporary art, and delicious cuisine, capturing the essence of Dreta de l’Eixample in Barcelona.
How to spend a day in Gràcia
For centuries, Gràcia was a small district on Barcelona’s outer fringe, only officially becoming part of the city in 1897. Today, there’s still a villagey feel to its vibrant warren of low-rise streets dotted with leafy plazas where locals sit and chat.
Morning:
Bar La Camila: Start your day with a cafe con leche at Bar La Camila, a small hole-in-the-wall cafe that combines the city’s flourishing artisan coffee scene with the old-school charm of a traditional neighbourhood watering hole. For a proper Catalan breakfast, order pa amb tomàquet — crusty toast topped with tomato and olive oil.
Casa Vicens: A 15-minute walk will take you to Casa Vicens, the very first house Gaudí designed. It’s a riot of colourfully tiled turrets and intricate wrought iron balconies, with an equally eccentric interior that’s open for ticketed entry throughout the week.
Park Güell: If you’re in need of an extra Gaudí fix, head across Gràcia to Park Güell and explore its collection of mosaic-clad sculptures, terraces, and whimsical gatehouses. Enjoy the vibrant and imaginative designs that showcase Gaudí’s unique architectural style.
Midday:
Lluritu: When hunger hits, head to Lluritu for lunch. The restaurant’s menu is an unfussy array of super-fresh local catch and is renowned for its succulent grilled octopus and cuttlefish tartare.
Plaça de la Virreina: A short stroll away you’ll find Plaça de la Virreina, a picturesque square overlooked by the towering 19th-century brick facade of Sant Joan de Gràcia Church. Pick up a scoop of creamy pistachio ice cream at Amma Gelato and grab a seat on a bench to watch the world go by.
Afternoon:
Carrer de Verdi: For a spot of retail therapy, head down Carrer de Verdi, a buzzy street lined with independent retailers such as toy shop Bateau Lune, Revolution Vintage Clothing, and SKFK, a chic boutique specializing in ethical and sustainable clothing. Explore the unique shops and perhaps pick up some souvenirs.
Evening:
Fonda Pepa: Come dinner time, pull up a chair at one of the gleaming marble tables at Fonda Pepa, a hip reimagining of a traditional Catalan restaurant. Don’t miss the flame-grilled tuna, and wash it down with a glass of locally produced natural wine. Enjoy the modern take on classic Catalan cuisine in a lively atmosphere.
By following this itinerary, you’ll experience the charm, creativity, and culinary delights that make Gràcia one of Barcelona’s most beloved neighborhoods.
Three new restaurants to try in Barcelona
Batea
This new venture from the team behind local favorite Besta is a modern take on a traditional marisquería (seafood restaurant). Chef Manu Núñez’s menu is at times experimental but always delicious. A changing roster of cocktails features the likes of rum with fresh camomile, offering a fresh twist to classic seafood dishes.
Bar Lombo
Late last year, former El Bulli chef Eugeni De Diego joined forces with Sardinian chef Andrea Ortu to launch this chic Italian restaurant in San Gervasi. Word soon spread about the quality of the pasta, particularly the pappardelle with osso buco ragú. The combination of Italian tradition and innovative culinary techniques makes it a must-visit. Booking ahead is recommended to secure a spot in this popular eatery.
Bandini’s
This cosy Sant Antoni spot serves dishes that draw upon the head chef’s Scandinavian roots. Expect plates of grilled chicken liver with stilton and chard, lamb chops with new potatoes, and steak tartar with shoestring fries. Bandini’s also boasts a natural wine menu and homemade vermouth, making it a perfect place for a relaxed yet sophisticated dining experience.
Three bars to try in Barcelona
Libertine
Housed within the hip hotel Casa Bonay on the Gran Via boulevard, Libertine is a lively late-night spot with stylish interiors and an extensive cocktail list. Try the Paper Plane, a tangy blend of bourbon, armagnac, and lemon, or the smoky Penicillin, which mixes smooth malt whisky with mezcal and honey. Additionally, there’s an array of locally sourced natural wines and craft beers, making it a great place for both cocktail enthusiasts and wine lovers.
Bar Marsella
Established in 1820, this absinthe bar has seen everyone from Picasso to Hemingway walk through its doors. Today, there’s a sense of faded grandeur to this historic institution; the service is charmingly gruff, and the bar packs out quickly on weekends, so arrive early for a taste of old Barcelona. The atmosphere and historic significance make it a unique spot for a drink.
Bar Cugat
This chic-but-unpretentious spot in Eixample de Dreta used to be a stationery shop and now features a large marble-and-carved-wood counter that serves as the bar. More than just a good spot for a drink, the menu offers an inventive take on Catalan cuisine, with dishes like grilled scallops with leek confit and red tuna tartare. The blend of history and modern culinary delights makes it a standout bar in the area.
Three markets you should visit in Barcelona
Mercat de la Boqueria
Just off the main drag of La Rambla is Barcelona’s best-known food market. Opened in 1836, the grand, modernist hall is filled with vendors selling everything from snails to pigs’ trotters. Settle on a stool at El Quim, one of the market’s small tapas bars, and order some crispy calamari. The lively atmosphere and wide variety of local and exotic foods make it a must-visit for both tourists and locals.
Mercat de Sant Antoni
For real local flavor, head to this recently refurbished market that’s been feeding the city since 1882. Most of its 157 stalls have belonged to the same families for at least half a century, selling seafood, jamón, and olives from within a grand, steel-framed building in Sant Antoni. The market offers a more authentic experience compared to the bustling Boqueria, giving visitors a glimpse into the daily lives of Barcelona’s residents.
Santa Caterina Market
This market in La Ribera dates back to 1845, but its most remarkable feature was added in 2005 — an undulating roof covered in a multicolored mosaic of ceramic tiles. Beneath it are myriad stalls and cafes like Bar Joan, a no-frills tapas spot serving a particularly good capipota (pork-based stew). The vibrant roof and diverse selection of fresh produce, meats, and cheeses make Santa Caterina Market a visually and gastronomically delightful destination.
Three vermouth bars to try in Barcelona
Bar Electricitat
One of the city’s oldest vermuterías, Bar Electricitat in Barceloneta, offers a truly authentic experience. Little has changed since it opened in 1908. Waiters will place a bottle of vermouth on your table and measure the amount consumed to calculate your bill. The bar’s nostalgic charm and timeless ambiance make it a beloved spot for locals and visitors alike to enjoy vermut with a side of traditional tapas.
Bodega E Marin
Located in the Gràcia district, Bodega E Marin is an old-school vermouth bar that has become a local institution. The narrow space is lined from floor to ceiling with bottles and barrels, creating a cozy, rustic atmosphere. Known for producing some of the city’s finest croquetas, this bar is perfect for a classic vermouth experience paired with delicious snacks.
Morro Fi
A more recent addition to Barcelona’s vermutería scene, Morro Fi opened its first branch in Eixample in 2011. The bar offers homemade vermouth and has since expanded to three lively locations around the city. Drawing in a young, cosmopolitan crowd, Morro Fi is known for its modern take on vermouth culture. Enjoy your drink with a selection of bar snacks, including anchovies, artichokes, and olives, in a vibrant and contemporary setting.