Bergamo: Beyond Milan’s Gateway
Nestled amidst the foothills of the Alps, Bergamo offers a captivating blend of medieval charm, stunning vistas, cultural richness, and culinary delights that beckon travelers to explore beyond its role as Milan’s lesser-known neighbor.
Bergamo: A Dual City Break Experience
Unlike many Italian hilltop towns, accessing Bergamo is surprisingly convenient. Located just 15 minutes’ drive from its own international airport, the city combines the charm of a remote Tuscan town with modern accessibility. While Ryanair’s arrival in 2004 brought attention to Bergamo, it remains somewhat undiscovered, often serving as a transit point for skiers heading to Lombardy’s mountain resorts or travelers exploring the region’s lakes and vineyards.
Città Alta and Città Bassa
Bergamo offers a unique dual experience with its Città Alta (Upper City) and Città Bassa (Lower City), each offering distinct atmospheres. The Upper City enchants with its cobbled streets, narrow alleys adorned with leafy balconies, and the picturesque Piazza Vecchia at its heart. In winter, the medieval ambiance is heightened, overlooked by the imposing clock tower that once signaled nightly curfews. Descending from the fortifications, the Lower City unfolds with its wide boulevards, opera houses, and vibrant bars, embodying a quintessential Italian cityscape.
The Funicular and Views
Connecting the Upper and Lower Cities is Bergamo’s 19th-century funicular, a charming mode of transport that ascends almost vertically through lush gardens and parklands. From its ascending carriages, visitors are treated to expansive views over the plains of the Po Valley, offering a surprising contrast to the city’s two-tiered charm.
See and Do in Bergamo
Go to Church: Hidden behind the lion-topped loggia overlooking Bergamo Alta’s central Piazza Vecchia, symbols of Venetian rule, are three remarkable religious structures:
Duomo: The Cathedral, featuring a plain exterior contrasting with its intricate marquetry interior depicting saints and angels. It also houses the burial place of Donizetti, the famed bel canto opera composer.
Colleoni Chapel: Known for its pink and white marble Renaissance facade, this chapel is the resting place of Bartolomeo Colleoni, a feared Italian mercenary. The chapel’s coat of arms, featuring three testicular attributes, is often touched for good luck.
Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore: Despite its plain sandstone exterior, the basilica boasts a breathtaking vaulted ceiling adorned with intricate marquetry. It’s also notable as the burial site of Donizetti.
See the Nativity: From November to January, the Duomo Museo hosts «La Luce Del Natale nei Tesori Miniati,» featuring nativity scenes among archaeological treasures from the cathedral’s collection. Visit in early December during the Feast of the Immaculate Conception to enjoy carol singing broadcast across Città Alta.
Walk the Walls: Explore the fortified walls surrounding Città Alta for panoramic views of the snow-capped Alps and misty plains. While the Campanone bell tower offers stunning vistas, simply wandering the roads and ramparts of the hilltop citadel provides equally mesmerizing views. The Città Alta Funicular makes it easy to ascend from the lower town to the old town, offering scenic views along the way. For even higher vantage points, take the San Vigilio Funicular to overlook Milan and the Lombardy countryside.
See Priceless Paintings: Visit the Accademia Carrara, home to a prestigious collection of Italian art spanning from the 15th to the 18th centuries. The museum boasts over 2,000 works, including religious and Renaissance masterpieces by renowned artists such as Mantegna, Lorenzo Lotto, Giovanni Bellini, Raphael, Titian, and Botticelli.
Sleep in Bergamo
B&B La Torre House: Located just off Alta’s main shopping and dining street, B&B La Torre House offers a cosy stay in a 19th-century townhouse. The rooms feature part-exposed brick walls, terracotta tiles, and modern fixtures. It’s an ideal choice for those seeking a comfortable retreat close to the heart of Città Alta.
Gombit Hotel: Nestled on a quiet cobbled side street in central Città Alta, Gombit Hotel stands out as a contemporary gem. Despite its whimsical frontage reminiscent of a 1980s Vespa shop, the hotel’s interior is characterized by cool browns and earthy tones. The generously sized guest rooms offer a modern and comfortable retreat within walking distance to Bergamo’s main attractions.
Relais San Lorenzo: For a luxurious stay amidst medieval charm, Relais San Lorenzo offers a five-star experience set around a spectacular Roman ruin. The minimalist design complements the ancient surroundings, with the highlight being the hotel’s underground restaurant. Guests can dine among ancient columns of masonry, creating a unique and unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Bergamo Alta.
Eat in Bergamo
Polentone: Located opposite the Funicular Alta top station, Polentone is Italy’s first kiosk dedicated to polenta, a traditional winter dish in Bergamo. Here, you can enjoy polenta prepared in various ways — creamy and cheesy, sautéed with porcini mushrooms, or topped with hare, wild boar, and pancetta. It’s a perfect spot to savor Bergamo’s cornmeal specialties with stunning views.
Da Mimmo: Da Mimmo offers local classics in a charming setting. Indulge in saffron risotto, meaty pizzas, and casoncelli — pasta stuffed with rich pork and beef, sometimes sweetened with raisins or amaretti biscuits. Adjacent to the restaurant, Mimi La Casa dei Sapori resembles a medieval Carluccio’s, where you can dine under vaulted ceilings surrounded by shelves stocked with regional products like legumes, grains, pastas, and wines from northern Italy.
Da Vittorio: Located in a former private members country club on Bergamo’s outskirts, Da Vittorio is a fine-dining establishment known for its exceptional cuisine and service. The restaurant is overseen by the Cerea family, renowned for their culinary expertise. Dishes include painted Sicilian prawns, a signature tomato pasta served with a bib, and cannoli piped tableside. End your meal with a selection from their impressive trolley of locally made Franciacorta sparkling wine, truffles, cheeses, and homemade chocolates and candies.
After Hours in Bergamo
Theatre: Bergamo celebrates its musical heritage through the works of Gaetano Donizetti, one of Italy’s renowned opera composers. Teatro Donizetti, an 18th-century opera house located in Città Bassa, hosts a year-round season that includes performances of Donizetti’s operas. The city also holds biannual festivals dedicated to Donizetti in November and June, offering a cultural treat for opera enthusiasts.
Cocktails: For a sophisticated pre- or post-opera drink, head to T-Bakery or adjacent Bu Cheese Bar on Via Petrarca in Città Bassa. These sleek and late-opening spots offer a selection of snacks and drinks in a trendy atmosphere. In Città Alta, on Via Gombito, Location 58 is a stylish venue with a 1950s glam setting, perfect for enjoying cocktails. Nearby, La Birreria specializes in craft brews, while Il Dispensario offers an intimate bar experience on charming Piazza Mascheroni, serving both drinks and snacks.
Dine and Dance: While Bergamo leans more towards wining and dining than dancing and cocktails, Setai near the Orio mega mall offers a unique nightlife experience. This venue is ideal for dressing up, socializing, and enjoying disco and techno music spun by Italian and international DJs. It’s a place to see and be seen, adding a touch of nightlife glamour to your Bergamo visit.