A culinary guide to Tokyo

Tokyo offers a diverse range of dining options, from casual eateries to high-end culinary experiences. 

Michelin-Starred Excellence:

In the 2023 Michelin Guide for Tokyo, an impressive 200 restaurants were awarded at least one star, surpassing both Paris and New York combined. Notably, 12 restaurants received the prestigious three-star rating, showcasing the pinnacle of Japanese culinary mastery. Highlights include:

• RyuGin by Seiji Yamamoto: Known for its artistic kaiseki menu, RyuGin offers a multi-course dining experience that celebrates seasonal ingredients with innovative presentations.
• Sushi Yoshitake: Chef Masahiro Yoshitake’s Edo-style sushi restaurant is a temple for sushi aficionados, focusing on simplicity and perfection in every piece.
• Sézanne: British chef Daniel Calvert’s Sézanne at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi has quickly become a destination for fine dining enthusiasts, blending European culinary techniques with Japanese precision.

Casual Delights:

Tokyo’s culinary appeal isn’t confined to fine dining. The city celebrates everyday dishes with equal fervor, evidenced by Michelin-starred ramen joints like Ginza Hachigo, Konjiki Hototogisu, and Nakiryu. These spots elevate simple comfort foods to gourmet status, showcasing the depth of flavors and craftsmanship in Japanese cuisine.

Regional Specialties:

Exploring Tokyo’s neighborhoods unveils a world of regional specialties:

• Ryogoku: Try chanko-nabe, a hearty hotpot traditionally consumed by sumo wrestlers to gain mass.
• Tsukishima: Sample monjayaki, a savory pancake that transforms from a gooey mess into a delicious treat on the grill.

Drinks Culture:

Tokyo is not only a paradise for food enthusiasts but also for drinks connoisseurs:

• Cocktail Bars: Renowned mixologists like Hiroyasu Koyama at Bar Benfiddich and Shingo Gokan at The SG Club craft innovative cocktails that push boundaries.
• Craft Beer and Whisky: Tokyo boasts a thriving craft beer scene with unique Japanese twists, such as incorporating yuzu or sansho pepper. Japanese whisky, renowned worldwide, offers a rich tapestry of flavors steeped in tradition.
• Sake: Centuries-old sake breweries in Tokyo produce this iconic Japanese beverage using time-honored techniques, offering a spectrum of flavors and styles.

Tokyo’s culinary landscape is a testament to its cultural richness and culinary innovation, drawing both local aficionados and international visitors alike to indulge in its gastronomic delights. As Anthony Bourdain famously said, Tokyo truly offers an unparalleled dining experience that can captivate and satisfy for a lifetime.

Fine Dining Restaurants:

1. Tapas Molecular Bar
   • Located in Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, this intimate eight-seat counter restaurant offers a fusion of tapas-inspired dishes with molecular gastronomy techniques.
   • Signature Dish: Imaginative creations like smoked barbecue pork designed to resemble a smoldering cigar.
   • Experience: Guests witness the culinary magic up close as chefs craft each dish with precision and creativity.
2. RyuGin
   • Chef Seiji Yamamoto’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Tokyo Hibiya Midtown is renowned for its artful kaiseki-ryori, showcasing Japan’s haute cuisine.
   • Menu: Omakase style, allowing Chef Yamamoto to curate a seasonal array of small, exquisite dishes.
   • Highlights: Each dish reflects meticulous attention to detail and the finest ingredients, delivering an unforgettable dining experience.
3. Sushi Yoshitake
   • Another three-Michelin-starred gem, Chef Masahiro Yoshitake’s sushi restaurant elevates the craft of sushi-making with innovative techniques and premium seafood.
   • Nigiri Style: Rice seasoned with red vinegar offers a unique twist, complementing delicacies like steamed abalone with a liver and sea urchin sauce.
   • Focus: Precision in sushi preparation and a commitment to showcasing the best flavors of Japan’s seafood.

Cocktail Bars You Shouldn’t Miss:

1. The SG Club
   • Recognized among the World’s 50 Best Bars, The SG Club in Shibuya offers a dual experience with Guzzle upstairs and speakeasy-style Sip downstairs.
   • Signature Cocktail: Tomato tree cocktail blending gin, tomato, dill, elderflower, and mastic for a refreshing and innovative flavor profile.
   • Ambiance: Upscale yet welcoming, ideal for both casual and special occasions.
2. Bar Benfiddich
   • Located in Shinjuku, Bar Benfiddich stands out for its artisanal approach to cocktails, utilizing foraged botanicals and homegrown ingredients like wormwood and yuzu.
   • Experience: No menu; cocktails are crafted based on your preferences and the season, often featuring absinthe and lesser-known spirits.
   • Unique Touch: Owner Hiroyasu Koyama’s dedication to creating bespoke drinks that reflect the flavors of Japan and beyond.
3. Kamiya Bar
   • A historic Tokyo establishment since the late 1800s, Kamiya Bar blends the atmosphere of a Western-style bar with the lively vibe of an izakaya.
   • Signature Drink: Denki bran, a potent mix of curacao, gin, and brandy known as ‘electric brandy,’ showcasing Tokyo’s penchant for creative concoctions.
   • Ambiance: Classic décor, attentive service in jackets and ties, and a bustling atmosphere perfect for sampling unique cocktails.

Where to Get Coffee in Tokyo:

1. Koffee Mameya Kakeru
   • Location: Kiyosumi-Shirakawa neighborhood
   • Style: Hip and minimalist
   • Specialty: Offers tasting courses that allow you to sample individual roasts prepared in various methods.
   • Why Visit: Known for its quality coffee and curated tasting experiences, ideal for coffee enthusiasts looking to explore different roasts and brewing techniques.
2. Kayaba Coffee
   • Location: Yanaka neighborhood
   • Style: Classic kissaten (traditional tearoom and coffee lounge)
   • Atmosphere: Set in a charming early 20th-century building, beloved by locals and preserved as a community institution.
   • Why Visit: Experience retro Tokyo ambiance while savoring well-crafted coffee in a historic setting. It’s a place where the community’s passion for coffee has kept its legacy alive.
3. Turret Coffee
   • Location: Near Tsukiji Outer Market
   • Inspiration: Named after the ‘turret trucks’ of Tsukiji’s fish market
   • Specialty: Known for rich espressos and creative latte art
   • Recommendation: Try their espresso macchiato for a smooth and velvety caffeine experience.
   • Why Visit: Offers a quirky and vibrant atmosphere near the bustling Outer Market, perfect for enjoying coffee while immersing yourself in Tsukiji’s lively surroundings.

Each of these coffee spots in Tokyo brings its own unique charm and coffee culture, providing a memorable experience for both coffee aficionados and casual visitors alike.

How to Plan a Day in Ueno & Asakusa

1. Morning: Ueno Park
   • Activity: Start your day with a leisurely stroll through Ueno Park.
   • Highlights: Enjoy the serene atmosphere, especially beautiful during sakura (cherry blossom) season from late March to early April.
   • Attractions: Visit the Tokyo National Museum within the park, known for its impressive collection of Japanese artifacts, including samurai swords and Buddhist artworks.
2. Lunch: Ameya Yokocho
   • Location: Head to Ameya Yokocho, an open-air market near Ueno Station.
   • Experience: Explore the bustling market filled with shops and stalls offering a variety of goods, from dried goods and spices to cosmetics and clothes.
   • Recommendation: Try Minatoya for their kaisendon, a rice bowl topped with fresh raw seafood such as salmon roe, sea urchin, tuna, salmon, and squid.
3. Afternoon: Kappabashi-dori
   • Location: Walk to Kappabashi-dori, roughly halfway between Asakusa and Ueno.
   • Highlights: Known as “Kitchen Town,” this street specializes in cookware and restaurant supplies.
   • Stores: Visit shops like Kama-Asa for finely crafted knives, Mikura for chopsticks, and Ganso for plastic replica food used in restaurant displays.
4. Late Afternoon: Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa
   • Activity: Visit Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa.
   • Attractions: Explore Tokyo’s oldest temple known for its impressive five-storey pagoda and giant gateways.
   • Snack Time: Enjoy local treats such as melon bread and daigaku-imo (candied sweet potato) sold along the street leading to the temple complex.
5. Evening: Hoppy-dori and Izakayas
   • Location: Head to Hoppy-dori in Asakusa for dinner.
   • Experience: Explore the lively street lined with no-frills izakayas (traditional Japanese pubs).
   • Recommendation: Try Shochan for their tofu and beef tendon nikomi (stew) and other delicious nibbles like cucumber with miso pate.

This itinerary offers a blend of cultural exploration, culinary delights, and local experiences in two of Tokyo’s historic neighborhoods, Ueno and Asakusa.

How to Plan a Day in Tsukiji & Ginza

1. Morning: Tsukiji
   • Explore Tsukiji Outer Market:
     • Activity: Begin your day at Tsukiji Outer Market, known for its vibrant atmosphere and fresh seafood.
     • Highlights: Wander through narrow lanes filled with shops and restaurants offering sushi and seafood. Sushizanmai is recommended for affordable lunch sets starting at around 1,000 yen (£6) for 10 pieces of sushi.
   • Visit Tsukiji Hongan-ji:
     • Attraction: Discover Tsukiji Hongan-ji, a unique Buddhist temple blending Indian and Japanese architectural styles.
     • Features: Admire stained glass windows and a giant German pipe organ, making it a distinctive cultural site in Tokyo.
   • Explore Hama-Rikyu Gardens:
     • Location: Head to Hama-Rikyu Gardens on Tsukiji’s western outskirts.
     • Experience: Enjoy landscaped ponds and flowerbeds amidst skyscrapers.
     • Tea Break: Stop at Nakajima-no-ochaya teahouse within the garden for traditional tatami seating and a cup of matcha tea.
2. Afternoon: Ginza
   • Shopping and Culture in Ginza:
     • Activity: Walk north towards Ginza, known for its upscale shopping and dining.
     • Highlights: Visit Ginza Mitsukoshi department store, starting from the basement food hall to the ninth-floor Art Aquarium Museum, showcasing illuminated fish tanks as psychedelic art.
   • Explore Chuo-dori:
     • Street: Wander along Chuo-dori, Ginza’s main shopping street lined with international boutiques and art installations.
   • Visit Ginza Six:
     • Complex: Explore Ginza Six, a luxury shopping complex offering boutiques and cultural experiences.
3. Evening: Dinner in Ginza
   • Fine Dining Options:
     • Restaurant Recommendation: Dine at Birdland, known for its Michelin-starred yakitori (chicken skewers) served omakase style.
     • Experience: Enjoy a lively atmosphere and a variety of skewers including thigh, breast, heart, skin, liver, wing, and gizzard.

This itinerary blends Tokyo’s contrasting atmospheres, from the bustling seafood markets of Tsukiji to the upscale shopping and dining experiences in Ginza, offering a comprehensive day of exploration and enjoyment.

Where to Eat Ramen in Tokyo

1. Nakiryu (Minamiotsuka)
   • Style: Shoyu Ramen
   • Details: Despite its humble appearance, Nakiryu has earned a Michelin star for its exceptional shoyu ramen. The broth is rich and flavorful, making it a must-visit for ramen enthusiasts.
2. Ginza Hachigo (Ginza)
   • Style: Innovative Ramen
   • Details: Ginza Hachigo stands out for its innovative approach to ramen, influenced by French culinary techniques. Owner-chef Yasushi Matsumura combines chicken, duck, shiitake, and seaweed in a velvety consommé-like broth.
3. Afuri (Ebisu)
   • Style: Vegan Ramen
   • Details: Afuri offers a vegan-friendly option with its rainbow ramen, featuring a plant-based broth and wheat noodles blended with lotus root instead of egg. It’s a refreshing choice for those looking for a lighter, vegetable-based ramen.

These spots showcase the diversity of ramen available in Tokyo, from traditional shoyu to innovative and vegan options, ensuring there’s something for every ramen lover to enjoy in the city.