Ericeira has become the ultimate playground for European surf culture. Known for its exceptional waves and picturesque coastline, the town draws surfers from all over the world. But there’s more to this coastal gem than just its stunning beaches. Adventurous opportunities abound inland as well, all within less than an hour’s drive from Lisbon.
Once you leave the beach behind, you can explore the lush landscapes, rolling hills, and charming villages that the region has to offer. Whether you prefer hiking through nature reserves, mountain biking on scenic trails, or visiting quaint towns with historic architecture, there’s an adventure for everyone.
Beyond the adrenaline-packed outdoor activities, you can also discover a rich culinary scene featuring traditional Portuguese flavors and fresh seafood. Local vineyards and wine estates offer tastings and tours, allowing you to indulge in the area’s renowned wines.
For a change of pace, take a leisurely stroll through Ericeira’s old town, where you can admire its vibrant streets and charming squares, or visit nearby attractions such as the historic Mafra National Palace.
Whether you’re seeking thrills or a more relaxed experience, Ericeira and its surroundings provide a perfect blend of adventure and culture just a stone’s throw from Lisbon.
I’ve never taken the time to truly contemplate the creation of a wave until now. The forces of climate and gravity combine to propel salt water across submerged topographies, causing the water to swell, rise, arc, and finally dissipate into powerful bursts of foam. My previous lack of attention now feels like a missed opportunity as I stand—wetsuit clad and awkwardly gripping a sturdy beginner’s softboard—on one of Europe’s most famous surfing beaches.
Instructor Francisco Romeiras from Ericeira Surf Clube points at the waves breaking across the mouth of Ribeira d’Ilhas, a stunning amphitheater of a beach embraced by sheer, golden cliffs that frame the Atlantic. «It’s a long point break, breaking on the right,» he explains, utilizing a lexicon unique to boardriders. «This wave, its consistency, the way it delivers in all tides, is what drew the first surfers to Ericeira back in the early 1970s. Ready to give it a try?»
I’m relieved Francisco isn’t directing me toward the distant figures carving shapes in the deep water. Instead, we spend an hour near the shore, allowing me to find my footing. «Don’t overthink it,» he reminds me as a small wave catches my board and I travel with the ocean at a speed that feels break-neck. «Knees bent! Eyes on the beach!» he shouts as I successfully transition from lying down to standing on the board for the first time before eventually toppling into the shallows.
As we emerge from the surf an hour later, Francisco points out a promontory marked by a silver statue of a surfer. ‘The Guardian,’ created by José Queiroz in 2017, serves as a call for environmental protection and preservation. It has become the unofficial symbol of Ericeira as the town continues to embrace its status as a World Surfing Reserve. The designation, awarded in 2011 by Save the Waves Coalition, recognizes the culture, economy, and environment of exceptional surf locations. Ericeira was the second place in the world, after Malibu, California, to receive this recognition. In May 2023, a 12th location delighted British surfers: North Devon.
While storing away our boards, I meet Ulisses Reis, a veteran of the local scene. «I was one of the first people teaching here. There was just a basic surf camp on the beach, a place for hippies to hang out,» he recalls, momentarily lost in his memories. «But it was demolished.» Today, a sleek boardwalk with wood-slatted surf shacks, showers, and a cafe stands in its place. The complex is home to Ulisses’ surf school, Blue Ocean, where his sons now teach. It’s one of over 50 surf schools in Ericeira. «I worry about the commercialization of surfing here, how fast things are changing. This is all great,» he says, gesturing around, «it’s my whole life now. But personally, I preferred it before.» Despite any tension within the community regarding the influx of travelers, it’s impossible to feel it as I wander through the white-washed lanes of the historic center. Surf shops, upscale clothing boutiques, and cafes serving poke bowls coexist with timeworn taverns and bakeries selling ouriços (local almond cakes). I discover houses adorned with antique tiles depicting saints against maritime disasters and modern street art filled with surfing motifs. Although the sport is relatively new to this traditional fishing community founded in 1229, it has already become an integral part of the local economy and culture.
«It’s hard being a fisherman. The tides, the conditions. The older men are glad their sons can work in surf tourism for a good life and still live off the sea,» says Ana Vaz from the region’s tourism bureau the next day. We’re touring Ericeira’s interpretation center, just off the main square.
Inside, an interactive model of the 2.5-mile coastline explains its seven distinct wave formations. In addition to Ribeira d’Ilhas, there’s Pedra Branca and Reef, both found off Empa Beach; Crazy Left, Coxos, and Cave, near Dois Irmãos Bay; and São Lourenço, a fast wave rising off a rocky plateau some 300 meters out from the beach. I finally begin to understand the geographical factors at play in creating ideal conditions for surfing—and gain insight into the culture and marine ecosystem locals are eager to protect.
«Ericeira is no stranger to visitors. It was founded by seafarers, and its mineral-rich waters were discovered by travelers centuries ago, even before Vila Galé hotel was built,» Ana says, referencing the palatial local icon built in 1955. Since the onset of the pandemic, record numbers of digital nomads have also made Ericeira their temporary home. «The challenge is balancing the needs of new visitors with those of residents and encouraging travelers to explore beyond the World Surfing Reserve. There’s so much to do if you venture inland.»
Accepting the challenge, I plan a route into the Mafra region. I pass rolling green pastures dotted with lemon farms, small communities such as Sobreiro (home to the quaint model village of sculptor José Franco), and family-run vineyards like Quinta de Sant’Ana. At the heart of the region lies the sumptuous Palace of Mafra, built by King João V in the 18th century. This baroque edifice is supported by a basilica, convent, and the 2,000-acre walled Tapada hunting grounds.
In the hilltop village of Sintra, I try my hand at another sport. The blossoming town, with its old fortresses and winding alleyways, needs little introduction—19th-century poet Lord Byron described it as a «glorious Eden» and fell in love with its charms. Few visitors know, however, that the granite mountain slabs beneath the western ramparts of the 8th-century Moorish Castle offer some of the best rock climbing in the country.
«You have to trust: in your feet, your equipment, your mind,» says Luis Batista, a climbing instructor from adventure sports company Desnivel, as he tightens my harness. «It’ll be worth it for the view.» We crane our necks at the 150ft-high mass of stone rising from the forested path. This is Penedo da Amizade, the largest cliff face in Sintra, boasting 72 different near-vertical paths of ascent. Luis gets me started on an easy grade III, demonstrating how to grip onto sheer surfaces and leverage body weight to climb. As with surfing, my initial attempts are neither steady nor dignified, and fear mixes queasily with determination. But on my third ascent, something clicks. I trust my feet. I reach higher. I find purchase where none existed before, and I make it to the top.
Below me, the western coast of Portugal unfolds like a map, land stretching out towards the vast expanse of ocean and sky. This past week has seen me exploring these two seemingly contrasting worlds, acquiring new skills and gaining new perspectives alongside experts who have dedicated their lives to riding waves and scaling great heights. I take a moment to absorb the view: the tiny, turreted pleasure palaces of Sintra nestled below, and the gulls soaring on balmy thermals. But only for a moment. Luis calls out, and it’s time to return to solid ground.
How to do it
TAP offers return flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester, and Dublin to Lisbon year-round starting from £93. For accommodations, sea view rooms at Vila Galé Ericeira hotel start from €120 (£103) per night, including bed and breakfast. For more information and to plan your trip, visit visitlisboa.com and visitportugal.com.