You might not expect the small town of Whittier, home to fewer than 300 residents, to serve as the gateway to several cruise ship docks, a major railhead, numerous glaciers, and a lush temperate rainforest. Yet it does, defying expectations and providing a starting point for exploring Alaska’s stunning natural beauty.
A growing number of visitors are flocking to this remote seaside town, an hour’s drive south of Anchorage, to trek some of Alaska’s best short-distance hiking trails, including the four-mile jaunt over Portage Pass, and discover the wealth of outdoor recreation tours and activities.
With more than a half million visitors passing through the tunnel each year and a second cruise ship dock already under construction, Whittier’s volunteer-led government is taking measures to preserve the town’s small community.
The only way to reach Whittier, Alaska by land is through a 2.5-mile-long, one-lane tunnel. Once a World War II railway passage, the tunnel’s rugged walls evoke a sense of adventure as you drive straight through a 4,000-foot mountain.
As you approach the town center, you’ll find Alaska’s Prince William Sound and a small harbor on your left. On your right, a massive waterfall tumbles down the lush face of the mountain you just passed through. About a mile and a half back along the coast, a new cruise ship terminal is set to open this summer.
“You won’t find many places that combine a couple of cruise ship docks, a major railhead, a ferry terminal, and a small boat harbor with a population under 300,” says Dave Dickason, mayor of Whittier.
However, there’s a lesser-known side to Whittier that many passersby may overlook. Most of the town’s 280 residents live in the 14-story Begich Towers Incorporated, affectionately known as “the BTI” by locals, as the Alaska Railroad owns most of the surrounding land. Originally built in the late 1950s as a U.S. Army barracks, the peach-colored condominium building houses its own post office, library, grocery store, and an underground tunnel that leads to the school.
“It’s like living in a college dorm, but as an adult without a resident advisor,” says Jamie Loan, the city’s planning and zoning commissioner.
Small town, big adventure.
Whittier, Alaska, is a rare destination where travelers can experience a variety of thrilling activities in one day. In this picturesque town, visitors can see more than two dozen glaciers, kayak through pristine waters, zip around Prince William Sound on a Jet Ski, motorboat, or stand-up paddleboard, hike to a waterfall in a temperate rainforest, and savor some of the best fish and chips available anywhere.
“If you’re seeking a unique, wonderfully odd, and amazing place to do something special, Whittier is it. Even as someone who grew up in Alaska, I didn’t fully appreciate it until I spent significant time there,” says Charlie Howard, co-owner of Glacier Jetski Adventures. Whittier’s location, sheltered waters, and proximity to tidewater glaciers made it the perfect base for Howard and his wife, Bec, to start their business in 2014.
Howard, originally from Juneau, observed firsthand the impact when large corporations take over locally owned businesses to cater to vast numbers of cruise ship passengers.
“Whittier provides an opportunity for someone like me—with a dream, an idea, and a bit of capital—to launch something new and exciting,” he says. Although more cruise ship travel would boost the town’s revenue and support its infrastructure, concerns remain about sustainable growth, especially when visitors from a single cruise ship can outnumber locals by a ratio of 10 to one.
“The conversation in Whittier often revolves around space,” says Jamie Loan, the city’s planning and zoning commissioner. “Whether it’s housing or land use, we continually discuss how to maximize what we have.”
Nevertheless, the town remains optimistic about welcoming an increasing number of visitors while preserving its community spirit. Efforts include finishing the final leg of a trail loop showcasing the town’s scenic waterfalls and building an accessible walkway near the harbor. The community takes pride in continuing to offer daily breakfast to residents at the local school.
“We know people are coming, but it needs to start with us and benefit us residents as well,” says Loan.
What to know
Whittier bustles with travelers from May through September. You can still visit during the off-season, but most visitor-oriented businesses will be closed.
The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel—the longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel in North America—is open from 5:30 a.m. to 11:15 p.m. in summer and 7:00 a.m. to 10:45 p.m. in winter. Vehicle traffic changes direction every 30 minutes or stops entirely when a train passes. If you’re still in Whittier when the tunnel closes, you’re staying there for the night.
Where to stay: Whittier has two hotels. The Inn at Whittier is only open during the summer; the Anchor Inn is open year-round. You’ll also find some short-term rental condos available through services like Airbnb.
Where to eat: The Swiftwater Seafood Cafe is legendary for its fresh-out-of-the-water fish and chips.
What to book: See glaciers in the Prince William Sound with Glacier JetSki Adventures. Book a wildlife and sightseeing day cruise with Lazy Otter Charters. Try stand-up paddleboarding (or kayaking) with Sound Paddler. Phillips Cruises offers a tour of 26 tidewater glaciers, while Whittier Walks offers historic walking tours.