The Shikoku Henro, also known as the Shikoku Pilgrimage, is one of Japan’s most challenging and spiritually enriching pilgrimage routes. Spanning approximately 1,200 kilometers (750 miles), it takes pilgrims on a journey through 88 Buddhist temples scattered across Shikoku, Japan’s fourth largest island. This ancient pilgrimage has evolved over a millennium, and today it continues to offer a path of self-discovery, reflection, and cultural immersion.
Pilgrims on the Shikoku Henro follow a series of ancient customs, such as bowing respectfully at each temple gate, cleansing their hands and mouth at fountains, lighting candles and incense, and chanting sutras. The ritual of leaving a name slip with a wish in the main hall, tossing coins into the offering box, and receiving a stamp in a pilgrimage book is all part of the journey.
Travelers embarking on the pilgrimage have the flexibility to choose how they complete the route. While some prefer the traditional method of walking the entire circuit clockwise, others opt for modern conveniences such as cars, buses, trains, or bicycles. Pilgrims can also choose to break the journey into segments or even tackle the trail counterclockwise.
The pilgrimage route showcases the diverse landscapes of Shikoku, from expansive coastal views to charming Edo-period scenes that seem straight out of a Hiroshige woodblock print. Pilgrims pass through small family farms, busy highways, and suburban streets dotted with vending machines.
Though the Shikoku Henro sees fewer pilgrims compared to the famed Camino de Santiago in Spain, it remains a beloved and cherished journey for those seeking a deeper connection with Japanese culture and Buddhist traditions. As interest in long-distance walks continues to grow worldwide, the Shikoku Henro stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of spiritual and cultural exploration.
Visiting Shikoku’s 88-temple trail
Visiting Shikoku’s 88-temple trail offers an immersive experience into the heart of Japanese spirituality, culture, and natural beauty. The journey often begins at Temple 1, located in Tokushima Prefecture in the island’s northeast. From here, pilgrims begin their journey on a centuries-old path that spans over 700 miles and includes 88 temples across all four prefectures of the island.
Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, is the monk who inspired the development of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. He was a prominent figure born in the eighth century who founded Shingon Buddhism, one of Japan’s most popular Buddhist sects. In addition to his esoteric teachings, Kukai was revered for his abilities as a poet, scholar, artist, and calligrapher. His multifaceted achievements and journeys throughout Shikoku became the foundation for the current pilgrimage route.
As you walk the trail, you’ll encounter a diverse range of landscapes and historical sites. For example, the section from Temple 20 to Temple 21 showcases cathedral-high forests of cypress, cedar, and bamboo, with rope-garlanded boulders and vermilion-bibbed stone statuettes called jizo, guardians of children and travelers. The walking staff inscribed with the phrase «traveling together» is also a symbol of Kukai’s presence on the journey.
Along the way, pilgrims can visit various temples, such as the Temple of the Great Dragon (21), which dates back to the 12th century and offers breathtaking views from its hilltop location. This temple, like many others on the trail, serves as a reminder of the spiritual significance of the journey and the connection between nature and religion.
The pilgrimage is not only a path to explore Japanese spirituality but also a journey of personal reflection and self-discovery. Guides like Tomoko Imaizumi, who has completed the pilgrimage multiple times, highlight the introspective nature of the journey, where the process of walking can lead to clarity of mind and inner peace.
Throughout the trail, you’ll encounter other pilgrims, many of whom are eager to share their experiences and blessings. Such encounters, like receiving a pale green friendship bracelet from a fellow pilgrim, can create meaningful connections and memorable moments along the way.
In essence, visiting Shikoku’s 88-temple trail is an opportunity to experience a harmonious blend of history, culture, and spirituality that leaves a lasting impact on the hearts and minds of those who embark on the journey.
The trail’s culture of kindness
The culture of kindness, known as osettai, is a distinctive aspect of the Shikoku pilgrimage and something many pilgrims experience throughout their journey. Pilgrims often speak of the generosity and hospitality of the local residents, who offer small gifts such as mandarins, sweets, or even small monetary donations.
As pilgrims walk the trail, they may encounter locals who demonstrate osettai in various ways. For instance, when our group was near the Vulture Peak Temple (1), we met Ranshu Yano, a master of the traditional art of ai-zome (natural indigo dyeing) from the Tokushima region. This region is known for producing natural indigo, once used in samurai clothing, and Yano invited us into his workshop to witness a portion of the intricate dyeing process.
Yano revealed his permanently blue hands as he inspected, stirred, and allowed the indigo stew to ferment. «It’s a living thing,» he said, emphasizing the need to feel the dye and its condition. The process requires careful attention and patience, and the finished indigo textiles are often transformed into beautiful kimonos.
(The mystery of Japan’s traditional washi paper.)
The Shikoku Henro presents an opportunity for pilgrims to receive gifts not only in tangible forms but also in the form of meaningful connections with people still closely linked to the land and their artistic heritage. Local artisans like Yano keep ancient traditions alive, bridging the gap between past and future.
«People have been doing what I do for a thousand years,» Yano said, reflecting on his role as a custodian of this age-old craft. His dedication and the kindness of locals along the trail add depth to the pilgrimage experience, offering pilgrims a deeper understanding of the culture and traditions of the region.
What to know
Shikoku is accessible from Tokyo by various transportation options, including air, rail, and road. Walking the Henro, the 88-temple pilgrimage route on the island, typically takes about six weeks to complete. While no special training is required, it does require an adventurous spirit and a reasonable level of fitness. Visitors can find more information about the pilgrimage online. In celebration of Kukai’s 1,250th anniversary, special stamps and stamp booklets will be available at temples until December 2024.
Top temples
- Awa Kokubunji (15): One of the three Zen temples on the route.
- Kakurinji (20) and Tairyuji (21): Known for the excellent hiking between them.
- Kongofukuji (38): Located at Cape Ashizuri, it offers stunning, scenic views.
Top temples
- Awa Kokubunji (15): One of the only three Zen temples on the route.
- Kakurinji (20) and Tairyuji (21): Known for the excellent hiking opportunities between them.
- Kongofukuji (38): Situated at Cape Ashizuri, offering wildly scenic views.
Outfitters
There are several operators offering guided and self-guided tours of the Henro, ranging from one-day to more than ten-day trips. Some of these include:
- National Geographic Expeditions
- Oku Japan
- Shikoku Tours
When to go
The best times to visit Shikoku are during cherry blossom season from March to May and peak fall foliage from October to November.
Shikoku attractions
In addition to the pilgrimage, there are many attractions on Shikoku worth exploring:
- Vine bridges of the Iya Valley: These unique and traditional bridges are a fascinating experience.
- Kotohiragu Shrine: A hilltop shrine known for its impressive staircase and breathtaking views.
- Ritsurin Garden: A celebrated garden with beautiful landscapes and serene settings.