A tasting tour of the Thai town obsessed with breakfast

A tasting tour of the Thai town obsessed with breakfast

In the southern city of Trang, breakfast takes center stage as the most significant meal of the day. Queues begin to form from the early hours, as locals and visitors alike eagerly await indulging in a delightful array of dim sum, crispy pork, and sweet fritters.

The scene in the southern Thai town of Trang at 6:30 AM is bustling with activity. At Sin Jiew, one of the city’s favored dim sum spots, a lady elegantly dressed in red lipstick and a silk dress enjoys her breakfast of pork dim sum, dipping them into sauce as she savors each bite. This early hour is already filled with a diverse crowd including school children, newborns, and office workers, all gathering to enjoy the flavorsome delights before starting their day.

Trang is renowned as a culinary destination, attracting food enthusiasts from Bangkok and beyond. Breakfast is taken seriously here, often starting as early as 4 AM. The town’s culture revolves around food, with extended funeral celebrations providing ample time for indulgence. A local named Winnie shares insights into the town’s culinary traditions, rooted in the schedules of rubber workers who historically tapped trees in the early hours, followed by communal meals.

Dim sum restaurants like Jeeb Khao are an integral part of Trang’s culinary landscape, offering traditional fare that has been enjoyed for generations. Mae, the fourth-generation owner of Jeeb Khao, takes pride in continuing her family’s legacy of serving hearty breakfasts that fuel the day ahead. Regular customers, like a 91-year-old woman who has been visiting for over six decades, attest to the enduring appeal of these establishments.

Trang’s dim sum is distinguished by its unique flavors, characterized by a generous use of pepper and accompanied by kam chueang sauce, a local specialty. Each restaurant adds its own twist to the sauce, resulting in a diverse culinary experience. The origins of Trang’s dim sum culture can be traced back to Chinese immigrants who settled in the region, bringing with them recipes and culinary techniques passed down through generations.

Beyond dim sum, Trang offers a wealth of breakfast options, from seafood-laden noodle dishes to crispy pork served at local markets. Businesses like Moo Yang Ko Pao have become synonymous with the town’s identity, attracting customers willing to pay a premium for quality. Even amidst the hustle and bustle of the market, vendors like Yu Pi take pride in their craft, serving up signature dishes that embody Trang’s rich culinary heritage.

For those with a sweet tooth, Kopi Sombat offers a delightful array of treats, from Malaysian-style tea to oversized fried dough served with coconut custard. Here, as in many places throughout Trang, breakfast is a celebration of flavors and traditions, a daily ritual that brings communities together over shared meals and culinary delights.