The journey to Santiago de Compostela is one steeped in history, spirituality, and tradition. The story goes that the remains of the apostle Saint James (Sant Iago in Spanish) were transported to the city from Jerusalem by boat, guided by angels, and were subsequently buried in the spot where the cathedral now stands. This tale has drawn pilgrims to the city for over a thousand years, making the Camino de Santiago one of the most significant pilgrimage routes in the world.
In recent years, the popularity of the pilgrimage has soared. In 2022, a record 438,000 people completed one of the Camino’s routes, with some opting for the final 62 miles (or 124 miles for cyclists) to earn the official pilgrim certificate, known as the Compostela. The growing interest in the Camino de Santiago extends beyond religious pilgrims to include recreational hikers, mountain bikers, solo travelers, and organized groups seeking personal fulfillment or adventure in the stunning landscapes of the Iberian Peninsula.
There are seven main caminos, or paths, to choose from, each offering unique experiences and challenges:
- The French Way: Beginning in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this is the most popular route, known for its well-established infrastructure and vibrant community.
- The Portuguese Way: This route follows the Portuguese coast, providing pilgrims with a unique coastal journey.
- The Northern Way: A less-traveled path, this route takes pilgrims through the Cantabrian Mountains and offers stunning views of the coast.
- The Silver Way: Traverses the vast plains of Castile and León, offering a more solitary experience.
- Other routes: The English Way, Finisterre-Muxía Way, and the Primitive Way offer varied landscapes and challenges.
Despite their differences, all caminos are marked by sacred sites such as ruins, shrines, and monasteries, as well as albergues (simple hostels) that have welcomed pilgrims since medieval times.
The Camino de Santiago offers a sense of camaraderie among fellow travelers, with moments of shared meals, stories, and experiences along the way. For those seeking solitude, the pilgrimage also provides opportunities for reflection and peace. Pilgrims may not find a definitive spiritual answer on their journey, but they often experience the tranquility and satisfaction of traveling through beautiful landscapes under their own power.
Itinerary one: The Coastal Portuguese Way
The Coastal Portuguese Way is a beautiful alternative route for those wishing to embark on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. This route spans 170 miles along the Atlantic coastline through northern Portugal and Galicia. The journey begins in Porto and ends in Santiago de Compostela, offering stunning ocean views and a blend of historical and natural sites. Here’s a suggested itinerary for the 14-day trip:
Days 1-3:
- Start in Porto: Begin your journey at Porto Cathedral, with its Romanesque facade and striking blue azulejo tiles.
- Head to Matosinhos: Divert to Matosinhos and follow the ocean on wooden walkways through dunes and market gardens.
- Visit Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim: Stop in the old naval town of Vila do Conde, browse for lace, and sample cod in the 18th-century fishing port of Póvoa de Varzim.
- Esposende: Watch kitesurfers off the protected shores of Esposende on the way to Marinhas in far northern Portugal.
Days 4-7:
- Neiva River to Viana do Castelo: Follow the Neiva River inland along a stone pathway. Cross the Lima River via an iron bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel.
- Explore Viana do Castelo: Take a funicular up to the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus, reminiscent of Paris’s Sacré Coeur.
- Continue to A Guarda: Wind through eucalyptus forests, coastal bastions, and windmills, then cross the Minho River into Spain. A Guarda is famous for its lobster and ancient Celtic shrine ruins.
- Finish in Mougás: End this stretch on the coast in Mougás.
Days 8-11:
- Discover the Monastic Way: Proceed up the coast past the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia, defended by Cistercian monks.
- Stop in Baiona: Learn about the port that first received word of the New World from the returning ship La Pinta in 1493.
- Join the classic Portuguese Way: Soak in sea views across the Vigo estuary, then stop for oysters in Arcade and cross the Ponte Sampaio bridge to Pontevedra.
Days 12-14:
- Explore Pontevedra: Check out the historic center, gothic basilica of Santa María la Mayor, and Santo Domingo convent ruins.
- Journey to Caldas and Padrón: Cross Galician farmlands towards Caldas and soak in thermal springs. Refuel with a lamprey-filled empanada.
- Finish in Santiago de Compostela: Follow the footsteps of Bishop Teodomiro, who found Saint James’s remains, and complete your journey at the final destination of Santiago de Compostela.
The Coastal Portuguese Way offers a blend of cultural and historical sites, scenic ocean views, and the opportunity to experience the camaraderie and traditions of the Camino.
Itinerary two: The Original Way
The Original Way, or Camino Primitivo, is the oldest of the Camino de Santiago routes and is known for being the most challenging. This 200-mile journey offers pilgrims stunning mountain views and hearty regional food as they walk in the footsteps of Asturian King Alfonso II. Here’s a 14-day itinerary for this historic and rewarding journey:
Days 1-3:
- Start in Oviedo: Begin at the Cathedral of San Salvador, where King Alfonso II started the first pilgrimage.
- Head into the Hills: Journey into the hills and fortify yourself with regional stews.
- Visit Nuestra Señora del Fresno Sanctuary: Enjoy the views from the sanctuary and rest in Salas, known as the ‘gateway to the west’ of Asturias.
- Proceed to Tineo: Continue through chestnut forest, passing vintage hórreos (stilted grain stores) and ruins of a pilgrim hospital.
Days 4-7:
- Pola de Allande: Continue through Pola de Allande, where locals speak Eonaviego (old Galician-Asturian).
- See the Palace of Cienfuegos de Peñalba: Visit the 14th-century hilltop palace and try local Oscos cheese in Puerto del Palo.
- Descend to Salime Reservoir: Enjoy the scenic views as you travel down to Salime Reservoir.
- Stop at Grandas de Salime: This is the last stop in Asturias.
Days 8-11:
- Cross into Galicia: Head into Galicia on quiet paths through ancient oak groves.
- Visit Castroverde: Explore the 14th-century, 65-foot-tall tower.
- Reach Lugo: Arrive in Lugo to admire the Roman walls encircling the town known for its good food and wine.
Days 12-14:
- Travel through chestnut tree-lined paths: Visit late-Roman ruins such as the temple of Santa Eulalia de Bóveda.
- Enjoy Galician seafood: Taste grilled octopus in villages like Melide.
- Join other pilgrims: The last stretch connects with the Northern and French Ways, passing the oak-fringed hermitage of San Pedro and the monument atop Monte do Gozo.
- Reach Santiago de Compostela: Complete your journey at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, a deeply emotional sight that may move you to tears of religious humility or sheer, exhausted relief.
This route provides pilgrims with a combination of natural beauty, history, and spirituality, as well as delicious regional cuisine to sustain them along the way.
Itinerary three: the Sanabres way
The Sanabres Way, a lesser-known alternative to the Vía de la Plata, offers a peaceful 220-mile journey to Santiago de Compostela. This route is characterized by its flatter terrain and suitability for cycling, as well as its chain of enigmatic monasteries and passage through plains, forests, and high, remote mountain passes. Here’s a 14-day itinerary:
Days 1-3:
- Start at Granja de Moreruela: Visit the ruins of the first Iberian Cistercian abbey from the 12th century.
- Explore Wineries and Chestnut Groves: Journey through Tábara, where you can find wineries dug out of clay amid chestnut groves.
- Travel from Bercianos de Valverde to Mombuey: Choose the thyme-scented route through Villanueva de las Peras, which is more pleasant.
Days 4-7:
- Depart Mombuey: Follow a long stretch alternating between deep woodlands, isolated meadows, and busy national roads.
- Visit Iglesia de la Asuncion: Marvel at the 13th-century church with its towering belltower built by the Knights Templar.
- Rest in Requejo: Pause under ancient oak and yew trees before crossing the A Canda mountain pass.
- Cross Regional Borders: Enter Galicia and try Galician-style grilled meat and seafood in A Gudiña. Cyclists may proceed via Verín, while hikers take a shorter route through remote mountain villages, descending steadily towards Laza.
Days 8-11:
- Travel through Unpopulated Countryside: Journey over the mountains of Requeixada and Talariño, then descend towards Ourense.
- Soak in Ourense’s Hot Springs: Enjoy the medicinal hot springs in this charming Roman town.
- Climb Out of the Valley: Take on a challenging climb with the reward of an overnight stay in Cea, known for its signature bread baked in special wood-burning granite ovens.
Days 12-14:
- Journey through Deza Valley: Experience the pastoral beauty of the Deza valley, and savor cocido (chickpea stew with pork shoulder and chorizo) in Lalín.
- Complete the Journey: Travel through pine and eucalyptus forests to link up with an ancient Roman road for the final approach to Santiago de Compostela.
- Climb Pico Sacro: Conquer this unique pyramidal mountain where legend has it the disciples Atanasio and Teodoro defeated a dragon with the sign of the cross before burying Saint James’s body.
This peaceful and historic journey offers pilgrims an enriching and meditative experience through beautiful landscapes and charming villages, culminating in the deeply moving arrival at Santiago de Compostela.
How to travel: A practical guide
How fit do I need to be?
The fitness level required depends on the route you choose, but all Camino routes involve significant walking, often over challenging terrain. If you plan a 14-day pilgrimage, begin conditioning a few months in advance by taking longer walks (up to 15 miles per day) with an increasingly heavier backpack, if you plan to carry your own bags.
Do I have to carry my own luggage?
You have the option to use luggage transfer services provided by Spain’s state-owned postal service, Correos, or private providers like Pilbeo. They can pick up and drop off your bags at each stage of your journey for a small fee (€5-10 per stage). This allows you to carry only a day pack while you walk.
What essentials should I pack?
- Clothing and Footwear: Comfortable, waterproof clothing and footwear, plus merino wool socks to prevent blisters.
- Sun Protection: Bring sunscreen, a sun hat, and a water bottle.
- First-Aid Kit: Include plasters, antiseptic, and pain relievers.
- For Albergues: Pack a sleeping bag, headlamp, earplugs, eye mask, and bed bug spray.
- Other Essentials: Carry toiletries, a guidebook, and a mobile phone with a charger.
Where will I sleep?
Public albergues, often run by local municipalities, charge less than €10 (£8) per night for a dorm bed, but do not take reservations. In busy seasons, consider booking private albergues or guesthouses in advance.
Is walking the only way?
While walking is the most traditional method, other options include:
- Cycling: Popular on most routes, though it requires a serious mountain bike and is challenging on the Original Way.
- Horse-riding: Possible and traditional, but requires experience and planning, so an organized tour is advisable.
- Sailing: The Sail The Way initiative allows travelers to sail between stages along the coast.
How does the accreditation system work?
- Credencial: Obtain a pilgrim passport (Credencial) from the UK’s Confraternity of St James, or download the app version.
- Stamps: Collect physical or virtual stamps at albergues and marked locations along the way.
- Compostela: Present your Credencial with stamps on arrival at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral to receive your Compostela.
- Qualifications: To qualify, you must walk the final 62 miles (or cycle the final 124 miles) of any Camino route.
By following these tips, you’ll be well-prepared for a rewarding and meaningful Camino journey. Enjoy your pilgrimage!