How hitchhiking through America spurred a love of desert walking for author Geoff Nicholson

The desert has always been a place of mystery and allure, a vast expanse where the elements rule and solitude reigns. For the novelist who once roamed the American highways as a young man, captivated by the open road and the writings of Jack Kerouac, the desert has become a place of solace and inspiration—a stark contrast to the cities where he once lived.

His first encounter with the California desert, specifically the Mojave, left an indelible mark. The sheer intensity of the heat, the dryness that could evaporate water from his T-shirt in minutes, and the realization that the desert demands respect were all part of a transformative experience. It was the beginning of a lifelong connection to this landscape, especially to places like Joshua Tree National Park, Yucca Valley, and Death Valley.

Unlike the familiar, tamed landscapes of England, the desert offered something more profound. It was a place of extremes—stillness and wind, emptiness and life. Every walk in the desert was an exploration, not just of the land, but of the self. Whether stumbling upon ancient petroglyphs, an abandoned mine, or the eclectic Noah Purifoy Desert Art Museum, each discovery added layers to his understanding of this enigmatic place.

The desert is often described in clichés: a place of silence, solitude, and emptiness. But for him, it was also a place of life, where every rock, plant, and creature held a story, where the contours of the land shifted with the wind, and where the isolation provided a canvas for introspection.

Encounters with fellow desert wanderers added to the mystique. He recalls meeting a man in Death Valley who claimed ownership of the desert and cryptically remarked that «if you walk on concrete for too long, you start to think like a predator.» The novelist didn’t see himself as a predator, but the desert’s unforgiving nature sometimes made him feel like prey.

As the years passed, the desert remained a constant in his life, even as his body began to betray him. A walk around the rim of the Ubehebe Crater in Death Valley, once manageable, became a grueling test of endurance. It was a sign of something more sinister—a diagnosis of chronic myelomonocytic leukemia, a rare and ultimately fatal blood cancer.

This diagnosis, while grim, did not diminish his love for the desert. Instead, it fueled his desire to continue walking, to keep writing, to embrace life as fully as he could for as long as he could. His book, Walking on Thin Air, is a testament to this journey—a reflection on his walks, his battles, and the desert that has been both a muse and a challenge.

In the end, the desert is more than just a landscape for him; it is a place where he has found inspiration, faced his mortality, and continued to live with purpose. The vastness of the desert mirrors the vastness of his inner journey, where every step is a reminder of the thin line between life and death, and every breath is a celebration of the time he has left.